What is the head pressure for a r22 walk-in cooler

Didn't help ya huh Wayne?? We are in the temperature control businesses, temperature is what's important, not pressure. The hotter something is the more pressure it has. On a satisfied home, I will say 75 degrees, your evaporator coil should be around 40 degrees. 40 degrees with r22 is about 65 psi. 40 degrees with 410 is about 125 psi. Head pressure, your condenser temperature, will vary depending on the time of day. The hotter the temperature, the higher the pressure. R22, 200-225-240...R410a, 300-325-350. Keep in mind, the hotter the house, the higher the pressure. Hope this helps!!

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Doesn't matter how big the unit is, pressures remain the same. On a satisfied temperature, approximately 75 degrees, r22 should be around 65 psi. The hotter the house, the higher the pressure. Head pressure varies on outdoor temperature. 90 degrees outdoor temp, approximately 200 to 225 psi on high side.

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Diagnosing Walk-in Coolers & Freezers Problems

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Jun 7, 2013 - Diagnose Walk-in Cooler & Freezer Refrigeration Problems ... For many evaporator units, the ice isn't melted, or the water isn't .... It works for few days (2-3 days) and it stop and does not run until I shut off the power .... My walk in compressor seems to be running and not shutting off. .... outdoor ambient= 85

Maintaining & Cleaning Your Walk-in Cooler or Freezer

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Jan 7, 2015 - Torn gaskets can let warm air infiltrate your walk-in cooler or freezer. Close the door when not in use. Do not block or prop the door open for extended periods of time. ... on suction lines between the condensing unit and evaporator coil. ... Make sure the lights are off when exiting the walk-in. ... clean walkin ...

[PDF]INSTALLATION & SERVICE MANUAL - Polar Leasing

Some HVAC 'experts' install coil lines without a pressure outlet. (ecspecially older units) In which case, you will have to install one. Usually they are located outside very close to the compressor unit on the inflow copper line. If not present, you can chase the lines back to the cooler head in the furnace/cooling unit plenum. It would be visible at some point in the lines if it was installed in the first place.

Hello, typiccally with noncondensables in the system your head pressure would be alot higher. 175 is pretty low high side pressure. Usually coils will freeze due to either low airflow or low refrigersmt charge not becuase of non condensables. I would get a second opinion from a differant company.

The best way is weigh in a charge. of course the type of unit will come into play as split systems have enough refrigerant factory for up to 15 ft lineset or so, depending on units make etc. If a charge exists already and requires adjusting due to lineset length, or repairs etc, youcan simulate a 95 degree day ambient outdoors by restricting the air flow a bit to artificaially raise the head pressure as do low ambient controls, thus bringing the head to around 270lbs in a r 22 system or ambient plus 30 degrees , converted to prressure, so a 95 deg day plus 30=125 deg converted to pressure is 269 lbs, the indoor air temp being clse to 80 degreees helps, the indoor coil will be 40 degrees cooler than the indoor ambient if all is normal and design conditions are met by God or you. If the indoors 75, go to a 35 d
eg coil temp this is ball park, as the subcooling (15 deg)and superheat (10 at the evap coil, 20 at compressor) will need to be monitered along with amp draw and Delta T or temp differntials suply vs return.

First front seat the valve stem on the expansion valve (in all the way), then backseat the valve (out) six turns. Next pump the system down and change the drier, evacuate, open the "King-Valve" on the receiver and allow refrigerant to circulate. Rule of thumb (ole school) measure ambient temperature add 25*F convert this temperature to pressure for head pressure. Also check RLA (running load amperage).
Allow system to run about 2 hours then check TXV Superheat should be 6*F for low temperature.

you legally can't unless you are e.p.a. certified to purchase the type of freon in the unit and you have the equipment to do so,by law you need to evacuate the sealed system,then pressurize system with nitrogen and a small amount of r22freon,find the leak,recapture nitrogen/r22 and repair leak,then recharge unit with correct amount of correct refrigerant it needs,the equipment to do so is very expensive too

Sounds like the compressor is tripping it's thermal safety. You say you turned the thermostat off and your head pressure climbed? I would check the contactor for stuck points that are leaving the compressor running continuously. BTW, you should have an EPA card before working with refrigerants. Call a tech to adjust the refigerant charge.

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