You do it using narrow rows of side by side zig zag stitches and bar tacking the ends of the rows. Make a line where you want the hole to be. Set the zig zag stitch width very narrow, whatever is closest to what suits the fabric. Coarse or loose weaves need a wider width, finer ones a narrower width. Experiment on some scraps to get it right. Number of stitches per inch, or stitch length, should be very fine, at least 20 per inch, but not 0. Try a few more experiments on scraps to make sure it looks right. Make a test hole to be sure it is the right size for your buttons.
Stitch a straight line of zig zags down one side of your line, with the edge of the stitching not quite touching your line. Stitch a second row directly on top of the first one.
Repeat on the other side of the line. Ideally you should still be able to just see the line you drew when the rows are done, but not see any bare fabric on either side of the line.
Then move to one end of your rows. Leave the stitch length the same, but change the width to match the width of your two side by side rows. Stitch a bar tack, about the same length as your two rows are wide. If your two rows are 1/8 inch wide, your bar tack should be 1/8 inch long. Do the same at the other end. Make sure the bar tack covers the very end stitches in the rows as it is the anchor that will prevent unravelling. This is exactly what machine buttonhole makers do, but they do it all for you.
Carefully slit between the rows to open the hole. I like to put a drop of Fray Check or something similar on my buttonholes after I cut them open. It makes them much stronger and they will never come out.
SOURCE: BUTTONHOLES
Yes, If you have a zigzag function use that. First you must keep the zigzag function stationary then set it to about a one or two on the stitch dial. Try that!
Are you sure that you are starting each button hole with the buttonhole slider foot back at the front? I know that they are usually spring loaded but is possible that yours isn't returning fully to the starting position.
Also, it is important to prepare the test buttonhole on a fabric sample identical to the garment you will be buttonholing, ie two layers with interfacing between.
I am trying to think what else could be causing this to happen for you. Are you going through the process where you stitch out the first buttonhole, then save this length and then repeat it multiple times. Or using the button in the back of the foot to provide the size of the buttonhole where there is a buttonhole trigger you slide down in place near the pressure foot.
If you have tried and followed the manual precisely and still arent getting a correct buttonhole out of the machine, then perhaps consider taking it to your local dealer and asking them to watch you go through the process and see if they can spot the problem; this should help identify if it is a machine problem or something you've missed in the process.
Good luck, hope you resolve it.
SOURCE: Buttonhole feature
try changing the needle
make sure the button hole lever is pulled down, it should be on the left
hand side of the needle, if your machine has one
it's also possible that the machine needs to be checked to see if
there is something wrong with a gear or just needs some type of
adjust inside of the machine
SOURCE: use 1 step automatic buttonhole on simplicity quilters choice
if your sewing machine has a button hole lever, then the button hole
function will not work until the lever is pulled down.
it to the right of needle
I'm including a link for a manual hard copy or download, they cost
different prices
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-simplicity-sw240.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-simplicity-quilter-s-classic-sw240-download.aspx
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