Presuming the flame is touching the thermocouple, try putting slightly more pressure on the knob and hold for a few seconds longer. If this doesn't work try going through the same process with the knob removed - if this works you need to put a small piece of packing in the shaft of the knob ( a small piece paper might do). If this fails you need a new thermocouple.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Seems like one of the thermocouples has failed or it may just be dirty. There should be 2 "prongs" sticking up toward the burner. 1 is for the ignition and causes the spark to jump to the burner and light it. The other is a thermocouple which senses the heat from the flame and operates a magnetic device on the gascock to keep the gas flowing. If the thermocouple is faulty, damaged, dirty, it may not sense the heat and therefore, the flame will keep going out. Make sure the end of it is clean and the burner is positioned properly on its base. The thermocouple is usually a steel rod sticking up. This can be easily cleaned with a bit of steel wool or scourer. Do NOT scrape or scour the ignition prong as this is made from porcelain and can break very easily. It is usually white in colour, with a little metal cap or stud on the end. sometimes , the knob wears and you cant push it down far enough to lock the magnet when the flame is on. Pull the knob off and try stuffing a little bit of paper down the hole in the knob which goes onto the gascock shaft.. This will allow you to push the shaft down further and thus ensure the magnet is locking onto the gascock. If you are unsure, try a knob from one of the other burners that you are not having trouble with and see if that works, if it does, then you know its the knob, Cheers, Steve
If The Burner lights and stays lit as long as the knob is depressed, but goes out after the knob is released then there is a failure with the thermocoupler or the valve itself. The thermocoupler can be tested once removed from the cooktop - as follows
Heat the tip on the thermocoupler with a match or lighter and measure the electrical connection (other end) with a voltmeter - it should read about 15 mV or slightly more with in a few seconds. If no voltage is read then the thermocoupler is faulty and should be replaced.
The valve coil can also be tested for continuity at while the unit is disassembled. If no continuity is found the valve is faulty and should be replaced
The small voltage created from heating the thermocoupler energizes the coil in the valve which in turn keeps the gas turned on while there is heat at the thermocoupler.
Some units actually reignite the burner if the heat is lost and the control knob is in the on position.
You have what we call a flame safe device fitted to the burner, (thermocouple lead), have you checked to make sure your flame on the burner is touching the tip of the "probe" on t'couple, if it isn't make sure that the ports on the burner are clear. If this does not solve problem then the thermocouple needs replacing by a Gas Safe engineer.
Need a new fsd ( looks like a small brass pencil) for the burner that won't light. The alignment of the ignition electrodes needs looking at and there over all condition I. E broken , worn , misaligned ect
I have the same problem especially with the center burner, but now am having increasing difficulty with two other burners. Those will eventually stay lit if I depress the knob for 20 - 30 seconds. The center burner will not stay lit, even when keeping the knob depressed for 2 - 3 minutes!
There are three parts to the ignition system typically.
The ignitor that is either in the burner or outside the burner.
The spark ignitor switch that is located on the burner control. (( one for each control ))
The spark modual. the modual creates the hi-voltage spark.
If the burner that does not ignight with its control does not spark but does spark with one of the other controls then the spark ignitor control switch is bad.
You can test it with one of the other burner control knobs. (( just try a working burnder and when it clicks look at the bad burners ignitor and look for the spark.))
If the bad burner that wont ignight does not spark then either your modual is bas or the ignitor is shorting out.
If you see any little spark but it does not spark from point A to Point B like the other burners then your ignitor is shorting and should be replaced.
If your ignitor is ceramic and it is cracked, then it should be replaced.
The Thermocoupler is faulty or has a bad connection - once the burner is lit, it heats the thermocoupler which then send a small signal to the valve to stay on - at that time you release the knob and the valve stays on ( supplies gas). If you give me a model number, i can get you a part number and price.