Question about Yamaha Electrical Supplies
Yamaha 3000 sei
Posted by Anonymous on
By reversing the polarity you could have burned out the the stater motor. Or if is fused it is blown out.
Posted on Feb 22, 2015
SOURCE: Powermate 4000 with Briggs &
Next step is to check that the magnet attached to the fly wheel is working properly. When you crank the generator over, put a multimeter on the leads to the magnet and look for a spike in the voltage. Be sure to get the polarity correct or you will damage your multimeter. If there isn't a spike in the voltage, then either the magnet is bad or the fly wheel is damaged. In either case parts will have to be ordered and replaced. If there is a spike in voltage, then it is time to check the fuel intake. Open up and take out the air filter. Inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean and doesn't have fuel or oil in it. If the air filter is we with either things, then this will prevent air from reaching the engine. This alone will cause it not to start. If the filter is clean, then leave it off and open up the throttle. This will give you direct access to the engine through the fuel intake. Put some fuel into a spray bottle, and when you crank over the engine spray some fuel into the hole where the air filter was. If the engine starts/sputters then you have a problem with your carburetor. If the engine doesn't start then you have a deeper issue that may require a trained mechanic to fix. Lets say that if the engine does start/sputter, then we need to take the carburetor off. Our goal is to clean the carburetor of any build-up and/or corrosion that has settled in the carburetor bowl. The carburetor is between the air filter assembly and the main engine block. When in doubt, trace the fuel line from the gas tank, and it will lead you to the carburetor. Next, grab the necessary tools and start by turning off the fuel and draining the carburetor. The fuel valve is typically inline with the fuel line. To drain the carburetor bowl loosen the screw on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Once the last drop is out, then unbolt the carburetor from the engine block. With the carburetor off and parts labeled for easy re-assembly, you then have to remove the fuel bowl. This will either unscrew as a whole from the carburetor body, or have a central bolt that has to be removed. When removing the bowl, PLEASE be very careful and mindful of the fuel float and the filling pin. With the bowl safely off, inspect it for fuel build-up and rust/corrosion. If there is either in the bowl then this means you need to grab a fuel safe cup and an old toothbrush and carefully start cleaning the bowl and the surrounding parts. If you are comfortable with small parts at this point, then carefully remove the fuel float and the the filler pin underneath it. Please take note on how this dis-assembles to ease re-assembly. Clean these parts as well with the clean fuel and toothbrush. Assemble the parts back together once you are sure everything is clean and put the carburetor assembly back onto the engine block. Once everything is tightened down, it is time to turn the fuel back on at the valve on the fuel line. With the fuel back on, hit the prime button 3-5 times and crank the engine over. If the engine doesn't turn over at this point, then there is a much deeper mechanical issue that requires a trained mechanic to fix. Most mechanical fixes at this point are not worth your while and you may save money by purchasing a new engine/generator. Please let me know what you find during diagnosis, and I can provide more help.
Posted on Aug 27, 2011
You still have trash/debris in your circuits of the carb or other carb problems...here is a few things to check also and a few hints
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Oct 29, 2012
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Is the screw turning into a nut? If so, is the nut turning while you're tightening the screw? If so, hold the nut with a wrench. If there is no receiving nut, then most likely the screw thread in the terminal is stripped. If so, you'll need to replace the negative cable. Your local auto parts store should carry a replacement, and most stores will advise you on how to change it.
Posted on Jul 30, 2014
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