Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer
All cycles work but drum wont turn on wash or spin
Posted by Anonymous on
To recall an error code:
Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 Too much soap.
Posted on Oct 08, 2014
If motor turning, belt slip, bearing could be broken. It's not easy to change the bearing, but first try spin the drum, if it can spin freely, then tighten the belt tensioner by adjusting the motor mounting screw.
Posted on Oct 08, 2014
It could be a direct drive. If it is a belt you will have to take it apart anyway so why not take it a part and look? If it is a belt it will probably be at the bottom of the housing and easy to spot. If it is something else you will not see a broken belt.
Posted on Oct 09, 2014
Can you hear the motor turning? If you can then the belt sounds likely. If not it could be a bad motor, or relay or a bad connection or contoller.
Posted on Oct 08, 2014
Try hand moving or spinning the drum for at least 6 revolutions. Try your cycle again. If that doesn't work you may have a slipped belt and will need a technician.
Posted on Oct 08, 2014
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct
drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of
the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
You can also see this site for removing the transmission.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.
The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Testimonial: "The information is very detailed and I'm sure will be helpful. We'll know more once we check for damages to the springs on the cams."
SOURCE: Loud Knocking
this is a collapsed drum bearing, one of the most costly of the repairs apart from the timer and motor, not normally a job for the diy man unless has an engineering background, sorry, the cost of repair depends on the age and replacement cost of a machine, a bit like a car, would you buy an engine for a 20 year old car, if you have a machine thats expensive then the repair could be worth it? stop running it you will cause more damage both to the clothes and the machine sorry (ps i am a retired appliance engineer of 20 years service)
Posted on Sep 19, 2007
You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
this sounds very much like the bushes have worn out on the motor,they cost about £10.00 to replace and easy to fit,hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
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