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I have a 1970 (early) 22 qt pressure canner. The model number is worn off and what I thought it said was M0522 or M0622 is wrong because the replacement gasket is 1/2 inch to big for it. I measured ar

I can't find the right gasket for it because the numbers are worn off the bottom of the pan. The old gasket is 44 inches around the outside. Bought a replacement but is to big. Help

Posted by Teri Gollihar on


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Remove the engine mount pin and carefully raise the engine yup as far as possible, be sure to use a large block of soft wood like pin under the pan so you won't damage it. Remove all the pan bolts, You do not have to remove the oil pan completely. With the pan lowered, remove the old gasket completely and take the new gasket and pull it around the bottom of the pan an pull it up to the engine. Basically wrap it around the oil pan. It you have the gasket that is plastic with rubber seal inserted in it, it is easier. It has clips that hold it to the pan and stays in place when lifting the pan back to the engine. Also add silicone in the corners on the front and rear bearing caps.

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Changing your oil pan gasket is pretty easy. Just messy. What you first do, is of course make sure your can get to it safely by jacking it up. Now once you can get to it safely. Then next step in where the oil pan is, you will see a plug. Get your self a big pan for oil to drain into. Any auto store has them, and there cheep. Just them you need a pan to drain your oil. Now, put the pan on the ground under your car and right under the bolt that you will be unscrewing to drain the oil. Now that the pan is under that, use a socket or wrench and unscrew oil pan bolt, and drain all your oil into pan that is on ground under it. (note, best to let car cool a lot before doing this, so oil is cool and you do not burn yourself from any hot oil)

Ok, now that your oil is all drained out into pan, next step is to get a socket and socket driver and match up with all the bolts you see going around the oil pan. You will be unscrewing all of them around the whole oil pan. After all bolts are out ( store the bolts in like a little plastic cup to not loose them. Now, you will pull oil pan down and now is the fun part. Cleaning around where oil pan went, and on the oil pan itself you will be cleaning that up good around edges, What your doing is making sure the old gasket is off and if parts are stuck or broken, making sure that is all off. Once you get the oil pan edges and the part where it goes up is all clean, then you are going to out the new oil pan gasket on the oil pan itself, making sure it is on good, straight, level you know really make sure it is flush. Now, get a couple bolts ready and your socket ready, then your going to slowly put the oil pan back up, with of course the new gasket on it and hold it up in place and then put a bolt on at one end hand tight for now, then another other end hand tight. Sometimes if you have a small jack or few 2 by 4's to help hold it up in place helps. Once you get it up in place a couple bolts on, then start putting all the bolts back on, but only hand tight. Once all are on, now slowly with socket, start tightening them down in a circular motion. Meaning top left corner, bottom left corner, top left corner right, bottom left corner right. Like going around the world when tweaking them down, so not to warp one area before all are snug together. Now, clean up all your stuff. lower car back down.

DO NOT FORGET TO PUT PLUG BACK IN OIL PAN AND DON'T FORGET TO PUT OIL BACK IN CAR. You can use the same oil you took out and put back in to engine with a funnel. But I Always tell people, to dispose of old oil, and put new oil in. Check you dip stick to make sure at full line. Now start car, let run for about 15 minutes, look under for any leaks. IF none drive around for about 10 minutes, then turn off car, look underneath after about 30 minutes of car cooling to make sure no oil leak. If no leaks, congratulations you just properly changed A oil pan gasket. Thanks Mike

Sep 20, 2011 | 1995 Toyota Camry

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I have a 2003 Dodge Stratus SE automatic 4 cylinder and 4 doors with approximately 160,000 Today as I was driving I noticed that when it shift gears as I accelerate, the car I accelerate it...

That sounds familiar, I know what to do. You should try changing out the auto trans fluid and filter, to do so first make sure you get the correct automatic trans fluid for your car. Most parts stores can tell you. Also you will need to get a new trans filter usually they are inexpensive. It will come with a new filter and gasket. Now most shops will not change the filter due to warranty and liability reasons, but it really is not hard i have done this many times. First you will want to jack up the car slide a drain pan underneath then find your transmission. Now you will be working with the pan itself on the bottom of the trans. If you have a drain plug your in luck simply remove it and drain the fluid if not there will be bolt around the outside edge of the pan. The best way i have found is to go around the pan breaking every bolt loose then remove every other bolt from the car, take care not to lose any bolts. Now this is important you want to position yourself so you can unbolt the pan and support it at the same time. Keep removing the bolts leave 2 on one side of the pan as a pivot point to start the draining. When you feel you have drained enough fluid to manhandle the pan go ahead and remove it all the way, carefully it will have fluid in it. note the car should be cool before doing this or fluid will be very hot. I suggest placing the pan under the trans because it will continue to drip fluid from the bottom. You want to clean the pan of all old gasket and sealant, clean the entire inside of the pan Brake Parts Cleaner works best and evaporates quickly. Very important there is a magnet in the bottom of the pan designed to catch any metal shavings that come off the trans clean it but do not remove it. The next step is to remove the old filter from the bottom of the transmission. Usually held in place with a few bolts, after the filter is out compare it to the new one to make sure it is the same. If so proceed with installing it in the same place. Now the filter will come with a new gasket, you will need some sealant i recommend high temp RTV silicone. ether orange or red. Apply an even layer on the pan after cleaning place the gasket on top of the sealant and press it in place then apply a second layer of sealant on top of the gasket now your ready to install. position the pan under the trans put it up into place and start putting the bolts back in. note only start bolts and start all bolts before starting to tighten them. Once all the hardware is back in tighten up the pan evenly up to the trans. These bolts do not need much torque so once they are tight they are tight do not overtighten. A small amount of sealant may come out of the outside of the pan that is normal and means a proper seal is there. Let sealant dry for 20 to 30 min. Refill the trans with ATF fluid usually 4 to 5 quarts. Check under the car after filling with fluid if there are no drips or leaks then you did it right. Yous transmission will shift as smooth as when you first got the car. ANY QUESTIONS JUST ASK

Jul 29, 2011 | 2003 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Changing the automatic transmission oil

This can be a bit tricky. My first advise would be to have a Quick change old station do this for you. But if you want to do this your self. You will need a large pan, say 3 to 4 inch deep. Turkey pans from a grocery store will work in a pinch, (cheep too). You will need 4-5 qts trans fluid for your car, please use the recommended fluid for your trans. check the owners manual. You need a new filter and trans pan gasket. You will make a mess, so prepare, get some rags and hand cleaner use gloves and even get some sort of mat for the driveway. Now start taking the trans bolts loose leaving the front two and rear two corners in place till last. You can drain out the pan front or back its up to you which ever you want. Once you have the majority of your pan bolts out. You can loosen the front corner bolts and the rear corner bolts use a screw driver and break the pan seal loose over your drain pan, try a corner first but its hard to do just a corner for a controlled drain. Most time it just starts and you have to try and catch what you can. As it drains down, loosen the bolts more to open the drain. Once it has drained all but the bottom of the pan, you can remove all bolts and the pan on to the mat. and see the filter. Clean the bottom of the pan. pull the filter, and install the new one. New gasket, reinstall pan tighten the bolts going opposite around the pan, one side then the other. Using a good funnel start pouring in the new fluid and stoping when the full mark is right, your done

Feb 23, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet Corvette

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Hi, I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, 2.2L, 4cyl. Oil pan gasket has gone bad, do we have to replace the entire oil pan? Or can we just find a gasket somewhere? Any thoughts on where to get either?

Here is the problem, the gasket is all you need as long as there are no holes in the pan, sometimes they hit things besides raccoons and dent the pan, you can get a gasket no problem, here's the problem, not all pans slide out for you to work on without lifting up the engine about 6 inches, there is an oil pump that sumps down in the bottom of that pan, and you can't get the pan out without hitting it especially when there is a motor mount, cross member in the way. You might be able to get the pan down about 2 inches, get the gasket cleaned off without spilling too much **** inside the sump, then stretch the new gasket around the outside of the pan and get it in place, use no adhesive, no silicone, nothing, dry. Good luck, and Hope this helps.

Oct 01, 2010 | Pontiac Grand Am Cars & Trucks

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How do i remove the oil pan


CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. (except 2.5 Premier engine)


Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lubrication system for all 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines


Fig. Fig. 7: Apply sealant to the ends of the new oil pan end seals at the junction of the cylinder block pan rail gasket-1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines


Fig. 8: Clean the gasket mating surface of the oil pan of all old gasket material, dirt, grease or other grime-2.6L engine
  1. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Drain the engine oil. This would also be a good time to change the oil filter.
  3. Remove the engine-to-transaxle struts, if so equipped. These struts prohibit access to the oil pan mounting bolts.
  4. Remove the torque converter or clutch inspection cover.
  5. Support the oil pan and remove the mounting bolts.
  6. Lower the pan and remove the old gasket, if so equipped.
To install:
  1. Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly.
  2. For 2.6L engines, position a new gasket on the oil pan using a sealer to hold it in place.
1981-87 2.2 and 2.5 Liter engine uses a liquid form-in-place type gasket. Chrysler Part Number 4205918, or equivalent RTV gasket material must be used.
  1. For 1981-87 2.2 and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and apply the form-in-place gasket sealant. The RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. Uncured RTV may be removed with a rag. The oil pan should be tightened in place while the RTV is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing of the material off location. Make sure to apply sealer where the end seals meet the block.
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines utilize end seals and side gaskets, not liquid gasket as with 1981-87 models.
  1. On 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and side gaskets. Apply RTV sealant to the parting lines between the end and side seals on these engines. If necessary, use a little grease or RTV sealant to hold the side seals in place.
  2. Tighten the pan bolts in a crisscross fashion, starting from the center of the oil pan and working toward the ends, to the following torque values:
    2.6L engine-53-61 inch lbs. (5.9-6.8 Nm) 1981-87 2.2L and 2.5L engines-16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines-M8 bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); M6 bolt, 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
  3. Allow the oil pan to sit for 15 minutes to ensure that the RTV sealant has completely set.
  4. Install the oil drain plug and a new oil filter, if equipped, then lower the vehicle.
  5. Refill the engine with oil
  6. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Aug 12, 2010 | 1987 Chrysler LeBaron

2 Answers

Can i drop the oil pan and or change the oil pump with out pulling the engine?

Bearings are located at each "big end" of every connecting rod (the rod that connects each piston to the crankshaft and at each crank support (part of the engine block) To measure wear on a bearing you need something called "plastigage" which is placed betweenthe bearing surface and the crank, the cap re-torqued then removed. You then measure the spread of the gauge material with a micrometer. If you remove any bearing and see brass backing instead of bearing material, you don't need to measure it...It is gone.You need to check all the bearings in this manner. If any Main bearings are worn, the engine needs to be removed as that is the ONLY correct way to replace them without having another immediate failure.
I'm not saying this to be insulting, but if you need to ask where the bearings are, it is likely you should not be doing this work. Though it appears to be a "take out, put in" operation, it takes experience and skill not only to do the job correctly but to recognize things inside that can bite you in the **** if they are not taken care of.
One other item....If you don't understand this answer do not rate it.
I only am a beginner (40 years in repair, many spent building 7,000 hp race engines) so, I'm not very sure about the answer (if you believe that, monkeys will fly tomorrow!!!) We do this free and really don't need a poor rating for a perfectly good answer!!!
Good luck!

Mar 15, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

2 Answers

How can i remove the oil pan gasket?


The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery.
2.2L, 2.3L and 2.7L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container.
  4. Install the drain bolt with a new gasket. Tighten the bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
  5. Remove the front wheels and the splash shield.
  6. Remove the center beam.

Fig. To gain access to the oil pan, remove the center beam-2.2L and 2.3L engines
  1. Detach the Oxygen sensor (O 2 S) electrical connector.
  2. Remove the bolts from the support bracket on the exhaust pipe.
  3. Remove the nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter.
  4. Remove the exhaust pipe and discard the gaskets.
  5. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, remove the converter cover.
  6. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the clutch cover.
  7. Remove the oil pan nuts and bolts (in a criss-cross pattern) and the oil pan; if necessary, use a mallet to tap the corners of the oil pan. DO NOT pry on the pan to get it loose.
  8. Clean the oil pan mounting surface of old gasket material and engine oil.
To install:
  1. Install a new oil pan gasket to the oil pan. Apply liquid gasket to the corners of the curved section of the gasket.
  2. Install the oil pan to the engine.
  3. Install the oil pan nuts and bolts and tighten the nuts and bolts in sequence. Tighten the nuts and bolts in 2 steps to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  4. If equipped with an automatic transaxle, install the torque converter cover. Tighten the bolts to 108 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  5. If equipped with a manual transaxle, install the clutch cover. Tighten the bolts to 108 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  6. Install the exhaust pipe with new gaskets and new locknuts. Tighten the nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the manifold to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)and tighten the nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter to 25 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). Install the bolts to the exhaust pipe support bracket and tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  7. Attach the Oxygen sensor (O 2 S) electrical connector.
  8. Install the center beam and tighten the mounting bolts as follows:

    Prelude: 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Accord: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
  9. Install the splash shield and tighten the mounting bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  10. Install the front wheels.
  11. Lower the vehicle and fill the engine with oil.
  12. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code.
  13. Start the engine and check for leaks.


Fig. Oil pan mounting bolt tightening sequence-2.2L and 2.3L engines


Fig. Oil pan tightening sequence-2.7L engines

3.0L Engine


Fig. Tighten the oil pan bolts in three steps, in sequence, to 8.7 ft. lbs. (12 Nm)

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the engine undercover.
  4. Drain the engine oil and replace the drain plug.
  5. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
  6. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts.
  7. Hammer a seal cutter between the engine block and oil pan to break the seal.
  8. Remove the oil pan.
To install:
  1. Clean the oil pan flange and engine block mounting surface.
  2. Apply sealant to the oil pan flange. Be sure to apply sealant toward the inside of the bolt holes.
  3. Install the oil pan on the engine. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 8.7 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  4. Install the exhaust pipe.
  5. Install the undercover.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
WARNING Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine oil will result in severe engine damage.
  1. Refill the engine with the correct amount of oil.
  2. Connect the negative battery cable.
  3. Start the engine and check for leaks.

I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Sep 23, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

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