Can I paint over a previously painted concrete floor that was sealed with a polyurethane type product?

Get a kit at any home improvement stores and the kit has cleaner, etching agent and paints too .

Really Travis there are automotive products that cost the same and are made for cars

You can, but it will not adhere well, and will not stand up to wear. Latex is designed for walls and does OK on some types of furniture (depends on material and finish), but not for floors. If it will be in a low traffic area, and you really want to try it, then clean the surface well, let it dry well, and do a small test patch, then give it a few weeks, but I would not count on it being durable under even moderate traffic, especially if the traffic is with something other than smooth soled shoes. Nice idea, though!

Hi!

Sublimation Printing is the most common printing method on mugs. By theory, sublimation is offset printing from a transfer paper to your substrate (which is your mug). Mug Coating is important since the coat is composed of Polyurethane paint which is where the Sub-Inks adhere into. Without a Polyurethane coat, the Sub-Inks will not stick to the surface of the mugs. What you can do in order to print on non-coated mugs is to coat those mugs yourself using Polyurethane paints that you can buy at hardware stores. These are usually used in automotive painting and may cause you a bit for each can.

You have to remember though that Polyurethane paints dries longer than enamels and prolonged exposure to these types of paints is hazardous to your health.

It would still be best for you to look for pre-coated mugs to save on production time and, well, efforts.

And yes, I have tried the above tricks personally as I am also engaged in crafts business...

for determining that more information is needed, especially what type, brand/manufacturer, what thickness, base and chemical base of it...

in most cases sealing laminate (especially printed laminate!) is bad idea. if this laminate is with wood overlay at the top, with thickness of at least 1.5mm (1/16") and not chamfered edges (for skilled craftsman - floor installer, even 1mm) , then you can use any type of floor paint on the top,

you will need to wear chemical mask if you use poly or any solvent based paint, mask will not be necessary if you use water based paint. during sealer process - you can keep windows open, but not during painting... open windows will cause ripple effect on the paint!

prepare floor in following method:
sand very lightly (matt only indeed) firstly whole area with #120 or even #150 mesh and then with scourer of #180 or #240, if possible use rotary, do not forget to do edges of the rooms! and especially corners...

if this is "bare" wood then:

1. use universal sealer, use good quality paintbrush (50mm - 2") on the edges and corners of the floor and use good quality long hair roller on broad area, sealer will dry up within half hour to 1hr, depending on temperature and humidity, after seal dry,
2. paint directly over prepared floor with appropriate paint, suitable to the sealer and your requirements.
3. after 24hrs, scour area again in method as above and then
4. strain the paint and paint final coat.
5. wait at least 24hrs before you step on the floor,
6. wait at least 5 to 7 days before moving furniture in, especially haevy items!
7. wait at least 30 days before you put rugs or mats on the floor

if this is pre-painted laminate and no damage to it, you skip point 1 and follow from point 2.

it is labour intensive process and albeit cut can be made in several days, paint must be done in single go! better if you have some assistance, one person doing the edges and one person rolling the paint. i do this sometime alone but usually one of the ta's will assist me... paint need to be applied rather thick in even motions no puddles and no bare bits left on the floor!

if you think about skipping cutting stage - DONT! - paint will start flaking and peeling away sometimes in few days or weeks, sometime after a year or so...

1 Make sure that the surface of the concrete is cleaned thoroughly. Remove stubborn dirt or stains with a mixture of one part degreasing cleanser and two parts water. Rinse the concrete well and wait 48 hours before continuing.

2 Use a large paintbrush or a long-handled paint roller fitted with a fine-nap roll to coat the entire concrete surface in a thick layer of soy-based or other environmentally-safe chemical stripper. Allow the stripper to eat away at the sealant for 10 minutes, scrape up the peeling sealant with a paint scraper or putty knife. Clean up all of the debris.

3 Rinse concrete to remove all of the stripper. Let the concrete dry 48 hours. Apply the new sealant or the finish of your choice .

I'm not sure if your wording is incorrect or if you've revealed the problem. Usually the difference between paint and stain is paint is a topical product, stain penetrates the surface. If you've stained your concrete, it should be wearing off or fading, not chipping. If this is the case, the profile on your concrete isn't correct. That could mean the concrete was sealed before you stained it or there was something that wasn't properly cleaned before the coating was put on. The most common solution to concrete adhesion issues where I live/work is to etch the concrete prior to re-sealing it. On the contrary, if the stain is adhering everywhere except in one spot, it would indicate there was an issue only there (perhaps from a grill, pool chemicals,etc.). I'd clean the area well, perhaps pressure washing the entire area to make sure everything is properly adhering and re-coat it. Be sure not to stain or seal over loose 'paint'. It'll flake again if you do.

did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?

unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.

now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.

You have to start outside.
First regrade slope of soil away from foundation. Add a drain and tile to direct water away from house.
If necessary dig down along foundation wall and add membrane.
In the basement, add a sump pump to pump out water to keep moisture out.
Clean basement wall, and add some waterproofing paint.

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