How do i know if i have the proper tension on the blade of my 14 inch bandsaw

Bandsaw SBW3501B 14 inch cut 2553mm blade that is 100.51 inches blades are shipped coiled, WEAR GLOVES, blades are designed to cut !!! as you cut the last tie, throw the blade away from you as it will uncoil with some force. better for that force to hit the floor than your ear '-)

93.5 inches
Do you not have internet? I found the specs for your model instantly on Powermatic's web site. Don't be so lazy!!

1. Make sure you put the right tension. Check tension recommendations on your bandsaw/ manual.
Here's a good article about that. What is Bandsaw Blade Tensioning and Why is it Important

2. Adjust the blade tracking. I suggest you to read this blog for reference. Band Saw Tracking Procedures

For the high speed, (2950 ft/min), the belt should be installed on the rear pulley of both the motor and the wheel. For the low speed( 1445 ft/min), the belt should be installed on the front pulley of both the motor and wheel. To properly adjust the belt tension, turn hand wheel until there is 1/2" deflection in the "multi-vee" belt. Check this link to see the manual. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/manuals/10325_manual.pdf
By the way, where do you get your band saw blades? I got mine from sawblade.com and I happy with them.

Hope this blog will help you http://bandsawblog.com/blade-tension/ .
What's your band saw blade? I am using Haltbar blades and never got problems tensioning.

I have 11[6 tooth scrolling blades] & 3[3/8" 14 tooth general purpose metal cutting blades.T8380-16 & T8382-16 for McGraw Edison 10" bandsaw. blades are 57" been hanging in my garage for past 25 yrs lol. would like to sell to best offer. contact me at [email protected]

i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

It sounds to me like the blade has stretched which the do in changing temperatures.
Try replacing the blade before you give up altogether. i was having the same problem with a Ryobi Blade would come off whenever i tried to cut a pice of 3 ply. I eventually replaced the blade and all ny troubles evaporated.

I lowered the spacer (on the threaded rod) and got enough drop in the upper wheel to fit the blade.