Question about Dryers
I've replaced the thermistor, thermostats, and the heating element
Posted by Anonymous on
ARE U GETTING THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF VOLTAGE AT THE CONNECTION,? i VE SEEN IN SOME CASES WHERE THE MACHINE ONLY GETTING 120 AND WILL RUN BUT NOT CREATE MUCH HEAT? THE DRYER USES 120 TO RUN THE CYCLE BUT NEEDS A FULL 220 FOR THE HEAT CYCLE TO WORK, THUS IF UR MISSING VOLTAGE IT WILL NOT HEAT? ANOTHER CULPRIT COULD BE A BAD TIMER STUCK ON COOL DOWN OR FLUFF CYCLE AND WILL PRODUCE NO HEAT?
Posted on Sep 28, 2014
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
This one isn't going to be easy, you've already replaced the major things. I'm guessing there's a crack in some connector, or other defect, that heats up like the element and opens up- giving the same symptoms. It could be a faulty connection in the power feed to the element connector, or any other connection en route to it. You might see something suspicious. If you have some electronic skills, you might run the dryer until it happens, then quickly disconnect it, and while it's still hot, ohm out all power connections and wiring that could affect the element. You might get lucky and find the open line, being able to hone in on the bad connection, etc. Good luck!
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
I have the same model of dryer and the same problem and no experience in fixing any appliances. I took a few screws off the top and the front, opened the dryer by rotating it forward, and found a red button (a fuse or breaker?) close to what I figured would be the heat sink. Pressed the button, it clicked, and decided to put it all back together. First load worked fine, hopefully that was all it needed. Good luck and hope this is all you have to do too.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
SOURCE: No heat in a Profile
The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.
The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.
You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.
Posted on Jul 22, 2011
SOURCE: i have a samsung dryer
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Posted on Sep 05, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers
Sep 08, 2011 | Bosch Dryers
Sep 01, 2011 | Dryers
Jul 20, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer
Jun 29, 2011 | Roper Dryers
Jun 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers
Jan 15, 2011 | Hotpoint Dryers
Oct 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers
Oct 02, 2010 | Roper Dryers
Jun 25, 2020 | Dryers
452 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!