Wheres the power.. No bump

If the subs you have are 2 ohm DVCs, that usually means each voice coil is 2 ohms. Putting the DVCs in parallel will make the sub 1 ohm, which is beyond the capability of the amp (which is only stable down to 2 ohms per channel). Putting each subs DVCs in series (for a total of 4 ohms per channel) will at least allow the amp to operate properly, even though you will not be able to maximize the output power.
http://www.interfireaudio.com/download/interfire_catalog_2009.pdf

How many ohms is the speaker? You have the amp bridged going into the sub? You have the negative of one side hooked up to the negative and the positive on the other side hooked up to the positive?

It says that it is bridgable at 4 ohms. What about the input? Set your stereo about half way up. Then turn your amps gain up slowly until it is where you want to listen to it normally. Not to loud. Then when you turn it up it isn't too much.

But it sounds like you have way too much power for one speaker. Especially a ten. It takes two tens to equal one 12.

Do you have enough amp to power the subs, sounds like the coils are heating up and shutting down. Twice the amp for the wattage of the speaker as in 100watt sub 200 watt amp supply and so on.. 1000 watt sub would need at least 1500 watt continuous out put

there is a volume on the amp try that and the settings on your deck allow you to adjust your subs

subs may not be abel to handel the amps out put or vicea versa . make sure subs and amps ohm specs are compatible (2 ohm subs ) 2 ohms stabel amp

depends on the car.

suvs;
get a box made for 4, the fire towars the headliner or the floor but work. or you can make a U box and fit 4.

to fit 6,
4 in the trunk and if ur back seats sit high enough 1 under each seat.

of a custom box to hold 2 in the front, 2 on top and 1 on each end. = 6... all in one box. loose sound quality but would work.

depends on what subs you are using that amp puts out a max rms of 150 watts x 2 no kicker brand sub will run of that low of power. the fading you are hearing sounds like the amp is being overdriven and it is hard clipping because it doesnt have enough power for the subs. that amp is designed for mids and highs.

the amp is no where near strong enough that sound you hear is called hard clipping and it will destroy your subs in minutes. depending on what model JL subs you have I can sell you a better amp.

In all reality, that amp is probably a bit small for those two subs. To maximize the power from the amp to the subs, make sure:

• The dual voice coils of each sub are in parallel (+'s together, -'s together). This makes each sub 2 ohms.
  
• Connect the subs in series (+ to -). This makes the combination of subs together 4 ohms.
  
• Bridge the 2 channels of the amp to the subs in series (see above).

This will put somewhere between 150-200W to each sub.

Keep in mind, though, that depending on the music type and location in the vehicle, the type and size of the sub box is going to make almost as much difference as how much power is on the subs. Sealed boxes are usually small and have a nice flat response, but tend to need more power to sound louder. Ported and bandpass boxes are larger and aren't as flat of a response, but have nice loud peak at a certain frequency.

Let me know if you need any more help!

I run one sub on my Kenwood Amp also. It does over heat also. My conclusion is that we are both trying to push that one sub too hard and the amp is having to work really hard to make that sub do what we are asking. Also, not having enough power or a good ground will cause it to over heat. I am going to go with the voice coils are heating up though.