I have an 03 Cabriolet and approximately 6 or 7 inches of the cloth is pulling away from the glass window on the lower passenger side. I'm beginning to wonder what good is German engineering if 7 inches of cloth coming unstuck results in a several thousand dollar full roof replacement repair?? I took mine to a trusted auto body shop and the owner recommended a local upholstery shop that has experience with convertibles. I will bring it in next week. I don't trust the glue solution (though I have bought some Gorilla glue and am tempted to try it). Does anyone know if tempered glass can be drilled with a fine bit? I would only have confidence in glue of a few stitches could be added to reinforce the connection between the glass and cloth top. BTW: my A4 is garaged DAY and NIGHT, only 58K miles - this is a manufacturing problem that will begin to cause Audi problems very soon. I've seen more failing the same way mine has.
TEMPERED GLASS CAN NOT BE DRILLED!!! If you attemp to score or drill tempered glass it will blow up. Tempered glass is cut to form and then tempered for strength. Once the glass is tempered it can not be altered in any way.
Do not attemt to drill ANY auto glass! you should only use urethane to glue down any autoglass. if you are going to try that route make sure you also get the proper primers for the adhesive you purchase.
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is the window snow or ice covered? if so, you'll need to scrape the snow or ice off of it. the wiper blade may only have frozen to the glass. after windows clear,try picking up wiper away from the glass and then turn it on. use your rear defroster to keep this from ocurring again. if none of this works, check for blown fuse under the dash. if this works,please accept my soltion and thank you for choosing fixya.com
Apply 203 mm (8 inches) of Liquid Butyl Sealer C9AZ-19554-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G162-A between the two secondary sealing fins centered on each upper corner of the cab's back window glass opening.
I have the same problem and read that in some cases 3M Wind-o-weld has been used to fix it. I tried that, and as soon as I put the top down and back up, it pulled back away. looks like I'll be getting a new top
Most auto upholstery shops can fix this - mine cost about $600 for a tinted plastic. Clear plastic was the same cost. I had mine done in Costa Mesa, CA
If it is the rear door panel, you start by lifting, pulling upward, the door closer/arm rest.
Remove the electric window control and disconnect wire from switch.
Remove two hex/phillip head screws which are visible when you remove arm rest.
Remove a plastic screw on rear edge of door located about 6 inches below window glass.
Gently pry around edges of door panel to force plastic fasteners (approximately 6) out.
Yes the glass does have a runner or rubber seal on it. If you have removed it from the frame and the frame is still strong enough to hold up for a while, then here is how you do it: place the rubber seal on the winow glass, have a piece of strong string (about 24 inches long), place the window on the frame for now (don't push it in yet, just park it on top of the frame, get in the trunk, get the string to pass between the frame and the rubber window seal, use the string to position the rubber seal while someone outside the car pushes firmly on the window (helping you pop it in, inch by inch). You have to work from one corner all the way around the frame until you get back to where you started from.It takes a while, it's frustrating and remember not to remove the string before you are completely done because you'll have to start over from scratch. Also, once done, for good measure, tape some painter's tape (low-level of stickiness) about a 1/4inch from the outside rubber window seal (all the way around) and fill the inside of the rubber seal with a thin layer of clear caulking (bathroom or exterior grade). then just smooth out the rubber seal while the caulking is still wet so as to remove any bumps or uneveness. Repeat once a year and you'll be sure that your Cabby won't leak water from the back window, and won't have a rusty back window frame that rots out eventually.
Hope that helps, Cheers!
remove the trim piece around the door handle. there are 4 tabs, one at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. remove the 2 screws in the indention for closing the door. carefully remove all of the locking pins in the door. there is a special tool for this but if you are careful and take your time 2 screwdrivers will also work. Start in the lower left corner and slowly pry the panel away. you will be able to see the pins as you are pulling away. slide the screwdrivers on either side of the pin and carefully pry open. once all pins are released the small trim piece by the mirror needs to be removed in the same way. there is one pin only. after the trim piece is removed lift the panel up to release it from the window channel
On the interior, there is a rubber lip surrounding the window. This rubber lip holds the glass in place. Here is how to remove without breaking stuff: Collect about 6 sticks (more is better) that are flat and preferabley made of something a little bendable. The ones I use are plastic and measure 8 inches by 1/4 inch by 1 inch and taper down to a blunt, rounded blade at the end. From the interior, pull back the rubber lip where it meets the cab... not the glass. Where the lip meets the cab, you jam one of the sticks in place so it holds the rubber lip away from the cab of the truck (towards the glass). Start near a corner. About 4 inches away, do this again. Keep doing this until you have all the sticks in place. I found that doing this around one end of the glass (driver or passenger side) allows me to work that end out and the rest will come out with minimal hassle. To install: Place window on stand and wrap rubber gasket around window. Run a string that is about an 1/8 or 3/16 diameter into the groove that grabs the pinchweld of the cab. The string should be long enough to overlap. Overlap by at least a couple of inches. Tape excess string to interior of window. Have help to jam the bottom of window INTO the cab opening and try to center as best you can. While applying LIGHT pressure to outside of window, pull one end of string. What you are watching for is that the rubber lip at least catches the cab pinchweld. If you miss this, you will have to start over. (Sometimes you can save it if you have a hook tool handy. A hook tool is essentially a screwdriver bent sharply at a 90 degree angle.) If you do it right, as you pull the string, it will pull the rubber lip toward the interior of the truck and it will catch the pinchweld of the window opening. A little messaging and slapping of the window will fully seat the glass. You are done.
IF you scroll over the title, you can see the word "window". Raise the window about two inches. Remove the interior door panel: Remove the inner door handle screw, push the handle forward, pull it out some, unclip the actuating rod, you may also have to unplug the power lock switch. Remove the screw in the arm rest. Remove the plastic plug at the forward upper corner of the panel. Remove the black plastic triangle at the insdie of the side view mirror (it just snaps in place). Pull the bottom of the panel away from the door to disengage plastic clips, then lift the panel off the door and disconnect the electrical connectors. Pull the plastic away from the bottom part of the door (you'll probably end up tearing it). There are two bolts that hold the window glass to the regulator mechanism, remove those and the glass can be pulled up through the window opening. If necessary, the bottom of the window tracks (a screw at the bottom of botjh) can be loosened to loosen up the window.
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