Ammeterdoes the ammeter have plastic clips tohold it in place?

Put it on 2 amp slow charge

DO NOT CONNECT IT to both poles + - !!! the amp meter have very small internal Ressistance, it blows of :) Connect it like in the picture

can i ask why you put a trickle charge on a new battery ? also a trickle charger that is faulty will blow the ecu. its best not to use them on and vehicle from 90's and below as they were not designed to take them. modern cars have overloaders inbuilt into the ecu so lighting strikes etc don't do any damage and the engine will run on.

Confirm that the battery switch in the front trunk is in the ON position and the ignition switch is OFF or LOCK. Consult the Owner's Manual.
Pop the rear hatch, look on the right side of the engine bay for a small black plastic box with a red + sign on it. [This is not a first aid kit :-) ]
Lift the cover to reveal three bolts and nuts. This is a hard wired connection to the positive terminal of the battery; so be cautious, don't do any welding.
Put the red clip (positive) from the charger on one of these. Then put the black clip (negative) from the charger onto the nearby base post (ground). Plug in the charger, follow manufacturer's directions. Be cautious. If you don't know what you're doing, consult a qualified mechanic as this could be hazardous to you and the car....

Have the battery checked. There were a few years when Ford had an odd problem. The battery saver feature was designed to disconnect power draining equipment to leave you with enough juice to get the truck started. BUT it has been known to disconnect the charging system even at expressway speeds.

If the battery is weak enough to make the Alternator work too hard, the battery saver sees this as a power using problem and disconnects the charging circuit.

It is a sneaky problem and even using a battery charger the truck could be running and showing a charge, but disconnect the charger and it is a TIMED activation of the battery saver.. It activates after a few minutes and then your truck will discharge.

Another possibility is the plug-in for the small wires going to the alternator brushes. When you plug the plastic clip into the Alternator, the wires may not be sliding on the terminal. Often the wires ride up the plastic clip and fail to make contact with the terminal. In the store, they use their harness and clip and the terminal makes contact and works.

Often an alarm system will register a low battery voltage and presume the vehicle's battery is being removed to prevent the alarm from going off. They will then begin flashing and or sounding the horn.
In your case, I would presume that the battery voltage is too low which may indicate either a failed battery, or a parasitic voltage drain.

First, get the vehicle started, and run the vehicle for a good twenty or so minutes to get some charge to the battery. If you don't want to waste fuel however doing this, then I suggest using any battery charger, as all we want to do is get some voltage back in the battery. If you are using a charger though, then charge on a lower voltage setting overnight.

Once you have the battery charged, run off any surface charge by turning the vehicle lights on for a minute, then turn them off again.

You need an ammeter for this next part:


Disconnect the battery positive terminal and connect the ammeter in series with the battery and positive lead.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE VEHICLE!

With all vehicle systems off, the key out, doors closed and alarm 'OFF', bonnet close switch depressed, or bonnet/hood clasp closed (need a screwdriver), take a reading from the ammeter.
After probably no more than twenty minutes, the ammeter should be reading 0.03 amps and not much more. Anything like 0.5 or 1 amp means you have a battery drain.
If this is the case, then start by disconnecting the alarm system. If the alarm system has it's own separate speaker/horn, then disconnect this first. Many of these horns have backup batteries, which only last three or four years before they fail, which causes them to constantly draw from the vehicle battery and then flatten it when parked.
Every time you disconnect an item or system, check that ammeter again to see if the amps have returned to normal. Pull fuses one by one, checking the ammeter each time for any change until you find the system which is causing a drain, then attend to that system.

If your amps are normal however and your battery is still loosing charge when parked for any short length of time, i.e. a few days or so, then your battery is at fault and requires replacement.

Just before changing your battery, do one last check, which is with the vehicle running. You need to reconnect any battery cables, and start the vehicle. Using the voltmeter once more, check the voltage across the terminals with the engine running. This is your charging voltage and it should go up to around 14 volts if revving the engine slightly. If still around 12 volts only, then you have a charging issue, which is probably the alternator.

I use and I'd recommend you register for free at www.autozone.com Once registered you'll have access to repair and shop manuals for virtually any car or truck. All the data, specs and diagrams you need now or may need in the future will be a couple of mouse clicks away.

Hello, to remove and replace the rear door try the following:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery of your Chrysler LHS. You can accomplish this with an open end wrench, to prevent any injury or short in the electrical system as you are working on the door lock switch. Place the negative battery cable out of the way so it does not touch any metal parts.


2. Undo any screws that are holding the lower door panel to the door with a screwdriver. Unclip the plastic hold clips that are attached to the back of the panel by carefully pulling them away by hand.

3. Locate the electrical connector wires. These wires run behind the panel to the door arm rest and detach each wire connector by hand. Remember how the wires were attached so you can put them back the same way when it is time to reattach them.

4. Lower the door panel away from the door. Then, remove any screws holding the upper door panel in place. Remove the door handle pull cup that covers the door lock switch and door handle by carefully popping the cover off after you have removed the screws holding it in place.

5. Detach the upper door panel from the door. You can do this by pulling it away carefully from the plastic clips. Move the upper door panel out of the way and locate the door lock actuator switch. Remove the screws from the actuator switch that are holding it in place and disconnect the electrical wires attached to the back of the switch.

6. Replace the old door lock actuator switch with a new one. This replacement can occur by connecting the electrical wires to the back of the new switch and reattaching the switch to the door frame with screws. Put the upper door panel back in place, securing it to the door frame with plastic clips and screws.

7. Reattach the door handle pull cup to the upper door panel with screws. Then, put the lower door panel in place and reattach the electrical wires to the window switches underneath the armrest. Attach the lower door panel to the door frame with plastic clips and screws.

8. Attach the negative battery cable to the Chrysler LHS battery with the open end wrench.

Thanks

Battery life and performance - Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often are "my battery won't take a charge, and my battery won't hold a charge". Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes of sulfation are numerous. Let me list some for you.

• Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
• Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
• "Deep cycling" an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge.
• Undercharging of a battery to only 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incompleted charging cycle.
• Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
• Low electrolyte level - battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
• Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.
• Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather.
• Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. More info on parasitic drain will follow in this document.

Making another post because there will be too much on one post.....

How long do you leave car standing for??

Need specialised gear to check for this (Ammeter of at least 20amps, voltmeter)

With all doors closed place ammeter across -ve battery terminal (Battery terminal removed. (Be aware BEFORE doing so you will need the stereo code to make it work again)
Measure any current draw. Should be zero. If there is current draw, if its below 1.5 to 2 amps then a light is on somewhere, boot, glove box under bonnet.

To eliminate current draw you may need to disconnect main poer feed to alterantor, which will eliminate it in test.