- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Francisco105 was the only person to answer the question being asked. Thank you. Your advice helped and my staple loader assembly is assembled again, without needing to buy another stapler. I did use a fine gauge wire instead of fishing line, though.
It depends on the age of the motor and therefore which governor assembly AOSmith used on the motor. Can you add a picture of the pieces? You'll have a bracket of some sort, a bridge that moves with centrifugal force to move the stationary arm, and a spring or springs to tension the pieces. You may also have either a screw or a retaining ring to secure it to the shaft.If the picture is too big to load here contact me thruwww.arrowmotor.net and you can send it direct...
I know this is more than 2 years late, but if you still need the directions to the ore loader, I recently acquired a broken ore loader at a garage sale. While most of the parts were either broken or missing it did have a complete set of instructions I would be happy to scan and email.
You don't need a shifter assembly. Inside your console is a small "pink" plastic lever that has a spring attached that locks the shifter in park. The small "pink" plastic piece where the spring is attached breaks off. Mine broke off at 45000 miles. Billet technologies makes a aluminum replacement for about $60.00 that won't wear out. The Chrysler forum has pictures and detailed instructions on the replacement procedure.
The magazine on the TR250 has a recess on one side as well as a relief at the top where the driver pushes them through the opening. Load the brads/nails on that side of the magazine and it should operate properly. AS A REMINDER: ALWAYS REMOVE NAILS/STAPLES/BRADS WHEN NOT IN USE AS THIS WILL WEAKEN THE SPRING AND CAUSE FEED PROBLEMS IN THE FUTURE.
I suggest you visit your local hardware store (Ace/Westlake) or you can try EBay, I've found numerous parts at great prices on there and they will usually designate what they will work with. Hope this helps. In the future, remove the material from your gun while keeping it stored, as this will weaken your magazine feed spring.
Be sure to remove the metal nose piece that covers the lockout bar when assembled. It may be stuck to the other half of the gun. Replace the bar and the spring and put the metal nose piece in its position over the lockout bar. At this point the metal nose piece will be on the opposite side. This will allow you to replace the 2 halves carefully so as not to loose the spring.
Could not find a picture of this installed, I have replaced this spring and it is hard to do. You have to put the straight prong of the spring unto the valve arm, you will see a spot for it to be at, then wind the other end of the spring around until it goes into a slot, then get it all together on the agi housing before it comes apart. Hope this makes sense.
×