Trek 7300 effort pedaling

Pedals are a thin 15 mm wrench, which is a specialized tool. Contact your local bike shop for assistance

Well, if your bike has been stored outside, then the cable is corroded in the housing. They will both need to be replaced. If the brake pads are wedged against the braking surfaces of the rims, then they were either not installed correctly or the pads have worn enough that they make contact at an odd angle and became stuck.

please follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1

Remove the screws or bolts securing the ends of the pedals to the crank axles. Slide the ends of the pedals off the axles. Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right disc shields to the base unit. Pull or pry the disc shields off the base unit and set them aside.

2

Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right side shields to the base unit. Detach the side shields and set them aside. Examine the interior of the base unit and locate the drive belt.

3

Pull the drive belt free of the crank pulley, flywheel and any other pulleys. Discard the old drive belt and install a new belt in its place. Turn the crank axles by hand to confirm that the belt will turn smoothly when the device is in use.Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.

Step 1:

please follow the instruction and fix it. God bless you.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

Step 2:

LUBRICATION

1

Prepare to oil by filling a grease gun with lithium grease. Check your owner's manual for the exact type of grease for your unit.

2

Locate where it is you need to lubricate. Focus on the bearings, free-moving joints and attachments with moving parts such as handle bars, wheels, pedals arms and guide rails. Go to each location one by one when greasing.

3

Unfasten the bolts or screws that hold the joint or attachment that you wish to lubricate.

4

Grease each bolt and screw liberally. Tighten each bolt and screw back into its place when finished.

5

Wipe away any excess greas

Step 3:

Drive Belt

1

Remove the screws or bolts securing the ends of the pedals to the crank axles. Slide the ends of the pedals off the axles. Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right disc shields to the base unit. Pull or pry the disc shields off the base unit and set them aside.

2

Remove any screws or bolts securing the left and right side shields to the base unit. Detach the side shields and set them aside. Examine the interior of the base unit and locate the drive belt.

3

Pull the drive belt free of the crank pulley, flywheel and any other pulleys. Discard the old drive belt and install a new belt in its place. Turn the crank axles by hand to confirm that the belt will turn smoothly when the device is in use

TREK bicycles have the serial number on the underside of the down tube near the crankset. Flip your bike so that the wheels are up and look at the tube near the pedals (on the tube that runs towards the handlebars).

Many TREK manuals are available here: http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/om/welcome/index.htm. You can find a good picture of the parts of the bicycle and their names in the manual.

Some other brands of bicycles have their serial numbers on the seat tube near the crankset.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

The automatic shifter mechanism on these bikes is driven by centrifugal force of weights near the rear axle. As they spin, they expand and move you to a higher gear. Although it's not a precise relationship, the mechanism is designed to shift to a gear that will give you a pretty constant pedal rpm - probably around 50 rpm. - regardless of the speed that the bike is moving. This is because as you ride longer distances your legs are most efficient at pedaling at a fairly constant speed (bikers call this cadence). Bikers who ride a lot find that these automatic shifters tend to keep you pedaling too slow (they find 70 rpm or even higher to be a better cadence.) However, if the cadence is too fast for you, you could alter the shift pattern by adding a bit more weight to the weights that are already there. You could do this with fishing weights and wire ties. This would give you a slower cadence. But as you ride the bike more you will probably find that you will want to remove the extra weights. I suggest that you keep riding without adding the weights and you will find that the preset cadence becomes more comfortable with time. It is also easier on your knees to have a faster cadence with lower pedal pressure. Good luck, Al K

Removing the pedal is pretty straightforward and Park does have a good page for it:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-installation-and-removal-pw-3-pw-4-pw-5-hcw-16

Unfortunately, removing a pedal sometimes requires a pedal wrench which is just a thinner-than-normal version of either a 15mm or 9/16" wrench.

As for the pedal bearings, I just lubed the bearings on a pedal of mine and took these pictures. Obviously, your pedal might be very different.

This is the outside of the pedal and you can see a locking nut on the axle.



The axle goes all the way through so hold the other end with a wrench and remove the nut.



There is a washer under the nut that just slides off



and then there is the cone-nut which needs to be unthreaded



I used a screw wedged into the opening to hold the cone-nut in place while turning the axle from the other end.



You now see the bearings and the race. This picture was taken after I'd re-greased the bearings.



There are bearings and a race at the other end as well. Simply get the bearings out, clean, inspect for damage, repack with grease, and reassemble. Do not over-tighten the outer cone-nut or locking nut. Just tighten enough so that the axle does not move back-and-forth. The pedal should be smooth though and not feel gritty.

Without much to go on, it sounds like the bike may be a bit too small for you. If it's too late to take it back for a large size, there are a couple of options for you.
1. Buy a set of pedals with toe clips. These will position the pedal under the ball of your foot and keep your feet from sliding forward into the wheel. 2. You may also be able to buy a set of shorter cranks, which are the arms your pedals attach to. Your Trek dealer can advise you as whether these are available for your bike and how much it will cost. Crank length has an effect on the effort required to pedal, though, so make sure you've tried everything else first.

Of course it can be converted to anything you want - at a price and with some effort. I recently converted a vintage 1984 Cannondale road bike from 2x7 Suntour downtube to full Campi 2x9, carbon crank, yada yada. I like riding it as much as any of the other 3 road bikes I have.

I sourced most of the parts for my various bike projects on eBay. If you're looking for vintage or retro, that's where you go. Just avoid buying cassettes that have been 'slightly' used.

Assuming your bike is still an original 7- or 8-speed, and you want to keep it that way, you may have to hunt around for compatible shifters. Upgrading from 7- or 8-speed to 9 may be the way to go, but then you'd have to get a new cassette (minimum) or a new wheel, or it may not fit into your frame's rear dropouts as the axle spacing crept up over the years with the addition of cogs.

Consider all the individual steps conversion may require; and if each requires yet another modification or encounters a dead end, like frame spacing. At retail prices for parts these days it might be more economical to get a new bike. OTOH, there's no matching the satisfaction of keeping a favorite steed active and doing the work yourself.

BMW workshop DVD says Front axle M22x1,5 (greased) = 50NM Front axle pinch bolts = 8NM Brake caliper to fork bolts = 30NM Rear wheel bolts M10x53x1,25 = 60NM
Brake caliper to fork torque needed if changing to SM wheels. Method. Torque greased axle bolt to 50NM, then compress forks several times without using brakes, then tighten both LHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM, then tighten both RHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM. Then test your brakes are working. Front finished. Rear. Torque to 60NM. I torque every second bolt as I work my way around the 5 Torx screws until they have all been torqued and double checked