I have a Samsung dmr57lfs Dishwasher and I am getting the 9E code shortly after it begins any cycle. I have removed and cleaned the low-level sensor (DD97-00131A), there was not much gunk in it. I removed all the hoses and cleaned them. I tested the continuity of the micro switch and it is functioning. Testing power-to-ground at the sensor I get 18VAC incoming when the DW is filling and 18VAC outgoing when the arm engages the micro-switch. I removed the flow meter (DD32-00004A) and checked it for blockage and I removed the water valve and cleaned a piece of something out of the inlet screen. I reassembled and still get an error. I have not checked for water pressure but the water supply shot water about 14ft across the kitchen and into the dining room when I turned it on and it wasn't disconnected. I found these instructions on the internet: Press the following buttons at the *same* time: DELAY START--NORMAL--POWER(button) The word "ALL" appears for 3 seconds followed by "t1" (NOTE: Test #1 checks the functions of the INLET VALVE--FLOW METER--LOW LEVEL SENSOR) Press the DELAY START button---the DRAIN MOTOR will run for 45 seconds. Then---water will enter the tub. When the PULSE COUNT (on the display) reaches "660" or greater---press the NORMAL button four times. A flashing "t5" will be displayed & water will drain for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds---the "t5" will stop flashing. Press the NORMAL button again---"t6" will be displayed. The word "OFF" should appear in the control panel display---indicating that the LOW LEVEL SENSOR SWITCH is in the correct position for *No Water* in tub. I started this procedure but as soon as the "pulse count" reached 660 The DW flashed 9E again.
This is an exhausting procedure you have described here. Have you checked the float in the low water reservoir is actually working.
Testimonial: "Yes' I watched the process with my voltmeter checking voltage from the output of the micro-switch to ground the water filled up, raised the arm to engage the switch and my meter jumped up to 18 volts to show the power was indeed going through the now closed micro-switch the water continued to run through the "brake" ( large plastic piece that is connected from the water valve to the tub and tot the top of the low water sensor)"
Sorry I hit post before I was finished...the water continued to fill for less then a minute with the switch closed and then E9
are you able to track the switch contacts at the controller connector. Something might be preventing the controller from getting the signal at its input.
I took out the PCB this morning and found a wiring schematic behind it. Yeah, I will have to wait until after work to continue the diagnosis
"It's working, It's working" -young Anakin Skywalker
Add a CommentI removed the the PCB again this evening and check for continuity between the brown wire (output of the low-water sensor) and where the wiring schematic said it connected at the PCB. Should have been closed but it was open. I traced the wire from the switch through the maze under the washer and found nothing. I removed the front panel on the door to expose the nest of wires behind it and traced the wire to this plastic box where all the wires transition from the door, through the cabinet and into the components under he washer I did not find anything. Used a long thin pair of tweezers to open the plastic box and SHAZAM!! broken wire inside the box. I then unwrapped the electrical tape securing all the wires together lot get enough slack on the wire to pull the back half of the cut wire through to the door. A wire nut and some if my own electrical tape, reassemble and Powered up. Ran through the test cycle as laid out in the initial clarification and he counter reached 660 with no E6 error. The dishwasher is right now an hour and 45 minutes into a normal cycle.
Thank you Sam!
Well done. Your perseverance got you there. I may have provided some inspiration. Use a decent soldering iron if that is what it needs to get it back on the connector. Or may be better to crimp it if that is how it has been done.
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SOURCE: Washing machine drain problem
you know, it sounds not like a mechanical issue. Sounds like your control circuitry is off kilter..
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