Question about RTO W4 A.O Smith Gas Hot Water Heater Draft Inducer
Already flushed...but, it sill will not give any pressure to the hot water anywhere in the house. It seems as if it is clogged or something...the water comes on strong and thin slows down to a trickle...then stops???
Clogged heat trap ******?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
Gene
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Posted on Sep 14, 2014
SOURCE: I have a tankles hot water heater. The problem is
If this ia a Chronomite Tankless Electric water heater we suggest you call our technical service department at 800/447-4962 for assistance.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
SOURCE: no water pressure on hot water, when i by pas
How many valves on by-pass, or what style by-pass have you got on there? Remember water has to go in bottom (cold) and then out top (hot) . No valve in between should be open. Valves going direct in to cold, and out hot need to be open.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
SOURCE: 2010 view winn- the hot water faucets, when wide
Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.
Posted on Oct 21, 2010
SOURCE: I have an Atwood water heater G6A-7E, heater heats
First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.
Posted on Nov 12, 2011
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