Question about KitchenAid Kitchen Aid KEBS207SSS Double Wall Ovens
The microwave oven door spring is broke. how do i replace it?
SOURCE: Kitchen Aid ovens - error codes
The F-3 error code typically means you have sensor problem. The sensor is usually mounted in the oven space up near the top of the unit. The first thing to do is turn off the circuit breaker to the oven. Do you have an ohm meter? I suggest if you don't to purchase one. They are relatively inexpensive. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend. Disconnect the sensor from the electronic control and measure the resistance. There should be a wiring diagram in the top of the unit that will help you to locate the sensor wires. Most sensors should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If sensor reads as an open circuit or has a very high resistance, it must be replaced. If instead it reads very low, then there is a short in the wiring. Some units have a fuse in series with the sensor. Check to see that the fuse has not blown.
Posted on May 03, 2007
I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?
Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.
As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).
After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.
As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.
Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.
So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.
Hope this helps someone else!
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
Here is what Kitchen Aid says about F4:
F4 Meat probe shorted
1. Disconnect meat probe and measure probe resistance (78kω at 60° F [15.6° C],
37kω at 90° F [32.2° C]).
2. If resistance is not valid replace probe.
3. Insert probe and check for a firm connection between probe and jack (in oven cavity).
4. Check connection between jack and harness (in rear of oven).
It sounds like the probe jack may be bad or the wiring between the jack and the control board above.
Posted on May 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 18, 2015 | KitchenAid Kitchen Aid 30 In. Stainless...
Oct 21, 2013 | KitchenAid Kitchen Aid KEBS207SSS Double...
Dec 29, 2010 | KitchenAid Ovens
May 26, 2010 | Ovens
Sep 28, 2009 | KitchenAid Ovens
Jun 19, 2009 | KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS...
Feb 25, 2009 | KitchenAid Ovens
Jul 02, 2008 | Smeg SE399X/5 Stainless Steel Electric...
May 14, 2008 | KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS...
Apr 22, 2017 | KitchenAid Ovens
53 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: