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Anonymous Posted on Sep 08, 2014

What does it mean when I hearslight squeek when the tub turns, sounds like it is coming from the rear of the machine

Model # MDE5500AYW What does it mean when I hear a squeeking sounding from the rear when the tub turns

1 Answer

Jorgie the appliance guy

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  • Maytag Master 5,639 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2015
Jorgie  the appliance guy
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Joined: Dec 20, 2014
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Bearings? or sometimes litle things can get stuck in between tub and housing and cause funny noises

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Dec 13, 2007

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite model: 22932

Washing machine works fine UNTIL spin cycle. Loud engaging sound and then it makes a squeek, squeek sound...not really a squeek, but if you were to listen to it, eee, eee, eee, eee, eee and loud.

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A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Mar 27, 2008

SOURCE: Loud squeeking durring spin cycle

Thanks Ill look into that.

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 18, 2008

SOURCE: squeeking noise on whirlpool washer duet ghw9100lw2

If your machine is 5 years old or so you might want to check out my post at:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1254687-duet_washer_very_loud_when_spinning

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 11, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool Calypso Washing Machine

I have the same washer. Over the past weeks I have had all sorts of error codes. In no particular order, I've had: CA, CI, ld, ob, and SL. Had a repair guy come out and put in a new pump. Didn't solve the problem. Had a more experienced guy come out from the same company. We basically tore the thing apart. We found an underwire from one of my wife's bras (she wondered where it went) along with a bunch of lint in the recirculation tube. You can see the outlet of the tube at the top back of the drum. We also found one of her small booty socks inside the tub blocking the drain tube. We fished everything out and it works great again. I have a two foot long cable grabber that we needed to get the sock out of the tub. You'd be amazed at where things can get trapped in these things. So, I spent $230 or so for a pump that I probably didn't need, but the new pump design is vastly superior to the old one so I'm not complaining too much. The company didn't charge me for the repeat visits, which was nice because the senior repair guy was at my house for about four hours at the end of his day. So the more experience guy and I brainstormed about why all the different error codes came on and this is what we came up with.

CA and CI -- These are current fault codes. Either the average draw or and instantaneous draw tripped a set maximum. These were likely caused by the pump trying too hard to pump thru the blockage in the drain line.

ld -- This stands for long drain. The pump must be able to drain the water form the tub within a certain time frame, if not, you will get this error code. Again, likely came from the sock blocking the drain tube. This may have also came on because the washer recirculates the water throught its cycle. With the recycle tube clogged by the underwire and lint, the only place for the water to go was out the drain. With that being clogged as well, the ld code comes on at the beginning of the cycle.

ob -- stands for out of balance. This one confused me a bit, because I was getting an out of balance signal with nothing in the washer. Apparently, with too much water in the tub and the thing sloshing around, an ob signal is very common with the drain clogged.

SL -- is for suds lock. You can get this one if you put too much soap in the thing. It can also come if you use conventional soap instead of high effencicy soap. I only got this one once. This message can also be caused by a faulty pump.

Hope this helps anyone with these problems. I wouldn't have wanted to tackle this one myself, but probably could do it now after helping with the repair last night. I know these machines have a bad reputation, and I wouldn't buy one of these again, but when its working, my wife and I think it does a good job washing our clothes.

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: Dryer makes noise when turning like bearings going or belt squeek

Hi,
check the following -
It's noisy
If your dryer is noisy, check these:

Rollers
Idler pulley
Glides
Rear drum bearing
Blower wheel

Rollers
Many dryers use rollers or wheels to support the clothes drum. When these rollers are worn, they can be noisy. You should replace the whole set of rollers at the same time. 


Idler pulley
Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it. 


Glides
Many dryers use nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn, they can be noisy. When that happens, replace them. 


Rear drum bearing
Some dryers support the clothes drum in the rear with a center spindle instead of rollers. The spindle may be a ball-and-socket type support or a shaft through a sleeve. When the components are worn, they may squeak, squeal, or rub. You can't repair them. Just replace them when they're worn.


Blower wheel
Your dryer's blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermostats, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over time. But if it's noisy, it may simply be clogged with lint. Clean the blower and test to see if the dryer is still noisy. If it is, you probably need to replace it.

good luck.....

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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

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