The Delta diverter keeps blowing out the rubber washer? I believe it is because of the high pressure water source.

- Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 1:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

3 - Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 3:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

9 - Size setting fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 9:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Reset machine size as per service manual instructions. If fault repeats replace Motor control module.

10 - Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 10:
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: Replace Thermistor.

11 - Pressure Sensor Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 11:
Primary Source: Pressure Tube.
Action: 1 - Empty all water from the machine. Remove pressure tube from pressure sensor, clear pressure tube of any water and reconnect tube (blow down the tube is necessary). 2 - If fault repeats, replace Motor Control Module.

12 - Flood Protection Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 12:
Primary Source: Water Valves.
Action: If the water valves are on continuously, check that the water valves turn off mechanically by disconnecting power to the machine.
Secondary Source: Pump System.
Action: Check pump for blockage and drain hose for correct height(end not immersed in water) or kinked.
Tertiary Source: motor control module.
Action: If water valves are been driven on electrically, replace motor control module.

36 - Water Leak Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 36:
Motor control module has needed to top up the water level more than 4 times during wash/rinse cycle. Most likely cause is waster siphoning out or the machine has developed a leak.
Primary Source: Drainage system.
Action: Check that the hose is not less than 850mm from the ground
Secondary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Make sure the pressure tube is fitted correctly and doesnt have any holes.

37 - Blocked pump:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 37:
Primary Source: Drain System.
Action:
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2. Check the length of the hose. 1m is maximum extension.
3. Check drain pump winding for open circuit.(Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut out and will reset after cooling)
4. Check for physical blockage to pump and hoses.

38 - Pressure Sensor Fault(empty reading during wash cycle):
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 38:
Primary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Check if tube is fitted correctly, check for blockages or holes in the pressure tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module
Action: Replace the module.

39 - Pressure Tube Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 39:
Same as fault 38.

40 - Bowl Dis-engage Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 40:
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action:
1. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can also stop the bowl rotating.
2. Check the clutch splines for physical damage.
3. Check that the pressure tube has not come off, kinked or blocked(blow down the tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Board.
Action: Change Board.

43 - Out Of Balance Switch Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 43:
Motor control module has found that signal returning from the out of balance switch indicates that the switch is permanently on or the harness to it is disconnected.
Action:
1. Check the level of the machine.
2. Check wiring to the switch.
3. Check switch for continuity and corrosion.

44 - Water in Bowl During Spin:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 44:
Primary Source: Drain system.
Action: Check for blockages/kinks in drain hose and function of the drain pump.

48 - Hot and Cold Inlet Valve Incorrect Signal:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 48:
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check the wiring.
Secondary Source: Inlet Valves.
Action: Check the resistance of the coils.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Change Module.

49 - Cold Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 49:
Action: See fault 48.

50 - Hot Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 50:
Action: See fault 48.

51 - Diverter Valve Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 51:
Primary Source: Blocked diverter valve.
Action: Check for foreign objects in the valve.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module & Diverter Valve
Action: Plug the machine into the power point but off at the control panel. Check voltage on the plugs at the diverter valve. If voltage around 230V, change diverter valve and motor control module

37. (00100101) Phase 1 to 6 - Pump Blocked Error ( No change in the water
level)
While draining, the water level reading from the pressure sensor has not changed
for over 3 minutes. There are three likely reasons for this fault. One is that the
drain hose or the pressure switch hose has been squashed or kinked and the pump
out rate has been dramatically reduced. The second possibility is that the pump is
partially or fully blocked. The third is that the pump is not operating due to Motor
Controller module, wiring or pump failure. This fault could also appear if the
machine is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended
length of drain hose. The Fourth possibility is a diverter valve fault or blockage,
water level is not altering as the diverter is stuck in the recirculation mode, giving
the module the appearance the pump is not lowering the water level.
Primary Source: Pump System.
Action:
1) Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2) Check the length of the drain hose and try to reduce the length if excessively
long. A 39 inch (1 metre) extension hose of the same diameter fitted to the
existing drain hose is the maximum allowable length.
3) Check for open circuit windings in the pump. (Note: Pumps are fitted with a
thermal cut-out, which will reset on cooling.)
4) If the Tub is empty of water, remove the pump from the pump housing and
check that it is not blocked. Also check the drain hose is not blocked.
5) If the Tub contains water, then service the pump from the top of the machine
by removing the top deck and Basket. Bail out the water, remove the pump
cap and hood and clear the restriction.
Secondary Source: Wiring.
Action:
1) Check the pump harness is connected correctly to the pump.
2) Check continuity of the pump harness.
Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module.
Action:
Activate the pump by operating the machine in spin mode. Check the pump
is rotating. If it is not operating, and Primary and Secondary checks have
been performed, then replace the Motor Controller module.
Note: Consider fitting Pump Hood Kit (WM013). If (5kg) 11lb SmartDrive fit splash
guard to pump.
Quaternary Source: Diverter Valve failure (Phase 5 and 6 Eco's )
Action:
Check the diverter valve, see fault code 51
51. (00110011) Phase 5 and 6 Eco - Diverter Valve Fault
Primary: The motor controller has registered a drop in water level in the
recirculation phase of the wash cycle, water is being drained instead of recirculated.
Or water has been sprayed onto the valve from an external source and caused the
solenoid to blow.
Action:
Turn the power off at the machine but leave the power on at the wall, then measure
the voltage across the terminals of the wax actuator, if a reading of 120V is
achieved the motor controller has failed due to the valve and both will need to be
replaced.
Secondary: Check for blockage in the valve itself or a broken hinge mechanism.

Probably needs a new washer.

Your Delta faucet is open and close the valve very quick. This will produce back pressure on pipes. You need an anti water hammer / back pressure suppressor to avoid this problem. You can find it in local market.

Regards

If your Delta RP17453 Pull-Down Diverter Tub Spout stops dripping after 5 minutes, your ok. If it never stops dripping, you need to replace delta faucet cartridge(s) behind the handle(s). This is were the water turns on and off and stops the water flow to the tub spout.

Delta faucets are some of the easiest to repair, and parts are usually available at any hardware store or home center. If you have a two handle faucet, replace both delta seats and springs and stems. If you have a single handle Delta faucet, replace the entire cartridge.

Sounds like the old style center-control delta type faucet, rubber washers describe older type but still good. The rubber seats have holes in middle, supply water to the cylinder which diverts water to the spout, and has a seal over top of ball allowing stem for handle.

Think they are talking about flex-hose type faucet accessory getting clogged, Maybe: lift the flex-hose faucet housing off the center-control faucet body? Water to it runs directly from center-control faucet and if broken seat gets in narrow line could inhibit spray.

Kitchen faucet spout too has an O-ring under where it connects to the faucet body. Unscrew large nut where meets the faucet body unit (slip-joint pliers), once free of threads, spout should pull straight up, easy or slight tug. I use bent paper clip to remove old one trying to save it in one piece so as to get exact size (that's important) to replace, push on one side then other.

Turn off the water to the home. You need tthe stem beneath the handle. Remove the handle after locating the set screw, remove the cylindrical beauty cover, and unthread the retaining nut to access the valve stem. Take it to a plumbing supply house or home store to make certain of the match.

i believe the faucet shaft,..they usually are on delta models i've worked on,........your best to get a full rebuild kit for this and do the whole thing when you've got it down,.....good luck, cracklin joe

If you are handy, the best solution is to call delta and have them send you a new diverter. They will need the model of your faucet. The new diverter will come with instructions on the install process. As far as fixing it without the new diverter, I don't believe you will be able to.