Ran load of towels, error codes F01 F02 showed up, towels soaking wet. Thought I'd try a lighter load of clothes to see if problem, got Error Codes F06 E02, clothes still dry.
Sounds like its not loading water.. this normally occurs if either your pump filter is obstructed or the inlet pipes filters are..TURN OFF THE POWER SURPLY then turn your water off at the stop valves and get the.. hold a small bolw under the joints when doing this as there will be some water in the pipes. with the pump filter id need to know the model to tell you where there filter is located, if your machine has a small panel at the bottom left of the front then its fairly easy if not the pump is at the back.
Click open the front panel you will see a knob similar to that on a mircowave,, turn this gently anticlockwise. ONLYT TURN IT SLOWLY as water will flow out, using a small bowl drain the water out. it will take a few bowl fulls to do this.. when your sure all the water is out fully remove the filter.. and run under a tap to clean of any lint etc, Before replacing put your finger in the outlet you will feel a small fan like device just move it slightly it should rotate freely.. (if not then the pump is jammed or burnt out) when replacing the filter double check for any dirt give it a rub with a sopf cloth and screw back in.. make sure it is in tightly..
SOURCE: maytag neptune front loader washer has NF error code
Does it agitate and does the door lock light come on? Theres a panel on the back you can take off via 4 screws. Here you can check the belt and watch to see if it spins or moves at all. If the door lock light comes on, and you here the door click. Than chances are your motor control board is bad. Seen this many times. Im actually replacing one tomorrow on the exact washer.I believe the part # is 22004045. Heres a diagram. If the door doesnt lock than you need either a lock assy or a new computer for it. The computer is in the top panel where the timer is. If you look at it you should see a burnt resistor. If no burnt resistor than its more likely th lock assy. Ill try and find the part # for the lock and computer, and a digram. Hope this helps. Dave www.washermd.com
SOURCE: Error E2
A model number always helps when you're looking for help. ;)
I looked through about twenty manuals looking for an answer for you; I suggest that you'll have better luck if you have the model #.
Here's the link to the many, many, many Daewoo washer manuals.
WashingMachine&cpage=1">http://www.dwe.co.kr/english/support/download.asp?class1=5&class2=19&class3=0&selorderby=1&searchpath=WashingMachine=>WashingMachine&cpage=1
Good Luck!
SOURCE: clothes are sill soaking wet after sin cycle
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
SOURCE: when the cycle is done my clothes is still soaking wet
Hello becca_m2012 ,
Is the machine a FAV6800A or FAV9800A. If it is one of those models are you failing in Spin Cycle of the Wash Cycle with a dC or Uc error code to the display? Lets nail down the model number and I will try to point you the repair path......Rich
SOURCE: A fault code LR comes up and the clothes are soaking wet.
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not
always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor
Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem
was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes
replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major
problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a
diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif
From another source...
"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.
If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.
It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting
screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel,
this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when
closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides
asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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