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Its an PA amplifier and i think this is build with an integrated powerpack IC output stage,
There are different TOA amps but if this model look first the fuses if that are (important)measured defect give a new fuse a try if it blows again there is something wrong in the cables or a speaker conection or filter , ut if the fuses are good there could be an single great brown or black colored IC with STK (....)A or B or something similar is to read on it on the great heatsink inside the amplifier that could be having 15 or more legs must be replaced , BUT also some capacitors thats belong to the output stage because every defect is having a cause.
It think this amplifier IC should similar be looking like this
Underneath or on the bottom of the laptop near the battery is a reset button, you can use a pin or something similar and push it, that could possibly fix the issue with the power not turning on. Also if that does not work you could have a bad power supply or something similar.
There is something stuck in it. A small piece of paper, paper clip.
A friend of mine was having the same problem with a similar printer. I told him there was something in there. I took a look and found that a paper clip some how fell into the unit and was in a tight spot. Once removed the printer worked great.
It could be as simple as a little piece of paper, or a bit hard like a piece of paper wrapped around a moving part inside.
I had a similar problem with two SONYs, it turned out on one there was a blown SMD fuse 4A, very near close by the DC power plug.
On the other the Power Management Board was bad and needed a replacement.
If you already went to the trouble of opening the laptop, see if you can locate a SMD fuse and check it. If there is none or if the fuse is ok, then see if you can locate the DC power management board and see if you can find a failed power mos on it.
Make sure that you have solid A/C power. On battery alone, your power settings might be set to "maximum battery" which will really dim your screen.
Removing RAM properly will not affect your computer or LCD. It's similar to "I ran out of gas, so my tire went flat" ...one has nothing to do with the other ...however, note that I said "properly" removed. If you used a metal object (like a screwdriver or similar device) to "help" remove the RAM, you might have shortcircuited the motherboard, video or a combination of the two.
You can narrow the problem down by connecting to an external monitor. If the video looks great on it, you have a bad LCD and should consider yourself lucky that's all it is. If the video is the same on the external, you did something to the motherboard which would warrant a replacement. At $200-$400 plus labor, that's not good.
Maybe you missed something really simple. Below is the official link for your Gateway NX860. But, it doesn't talk about replacing motherboard or full disassembly. This may help if you missed something, like removing the optical drive fully out of the bay.
I had a similar problem with my PC which had older version 1 USB. I purchased a USB 2 PCI card with USB Hub, installed and problem solved. It really not a very expensive proposition. The card comes with the necessary software and drivers. It works great.