Why do I have water in my electrical cord to water tank junction box

Bets say you have an electric water heater. shut off the electricity to the unit (typically in the breaker box), and then the water inlet valve. Locate the TPV valve, either on top of or near the top on the side, of the unit. Generally they have a small lever attached.

Depending on where in the home the heater is located, if indoors it should have thawed by now, outdoors it may still be frozen, remove the panels covering the elements. each of the elements will have a thermostat, each may be equipped with an independant reset button. press these. if one or the other seems to reset (a noticeable 'click), replace the covers.

ONLY if you were successful in resetting the thermostats, restore power, and wait 30 minutes. SLOWLY open the water supply, and watch for water leakage, listen for water flow(make sure all faucets are OFF first) Freezing can rupture the tank, ice can hold the TPV open, so there is a good chance your water heater is trash. Exercise caution.

In freezing conditions with a power outage, ALWAYS open the hot water someplace in the home to allow water flow(not full stream) to prevent freezing.

Junction box is fine.
Must be accessible and not hidden inside wall.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

43 feet is not over 100 feet, so wire size can stay same.
Recommend 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire for 4500 watt water heater.
If circuit has 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire, recommend 3800 watt elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

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You posted under tank-type electric water heater.
1) Check the circuit breaker.
2) Open top cover located on side of tank and push in reset button.
3) If these two actions do not restore function, then open following link for complete troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Take out the four screws that hold the top cover plate on the side of water heater.Remove the cover and carefully seperate the insulation. Be careful of what you touch as the incoming power is connected to the top terminal. There is a thermostat below that with adjustable shaft that has a pointer connected to it. Use a small blde screwdriver to turn shaft to adjust temperature. They usually go up to 140 degrees.Thank you.

Anode rods for tank-type water heaters are located on top of tank.
This is true since anodes are about 44" long.
Top of anode is standard 1-1/16" hex nut.
Anodes can be located in 2 different places: either directly screwed into top of tank -or- attached to hot water nipple.
Most times the exploded parts diagram in manual simply shows 'anode rod' without specifing exact location. If your tank has long warranty, then it can have two anode rods, and 1 will be on top and the other probably attached to hot water nipple, or there could be two anodes screwed into top of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If anode is screwed into top of tank, then it will be under a plastic cap -or- it will be concealed under the top cover of tank.
Look for plastic cap, and if none shows, then remove screws holding down metal cover and look there for 1-1/16" hex nut.
Lastly, remove hot water nipple and check for anode located there.
If you have 2 anode rods, then replace with same metal for each.

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Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.

The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.
Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.
If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary.

Hope this helps out

Electric water heater has panels located on front of water heater.
Remove top cover, and insulation to reveal thermostat and element.

Stand on dry surface, including boards or plywood.
Do not hold screwdriver in mouth.
Do not touch any metal.
Red reset button is located on thermostat.
Push in reset.
If reset will not re-engage, then thermostat may be bad, or some other problem exists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Screw terminals on thermostat are live.
When finished, insulation and cover must be put back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air that will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.
Put ear against tank to hear bubbly-fizzing sound that says water heater is working.

If water heater is leaking or wet, do not touch unless circuit breaker is turned off.

Electric water heater is fully repairable by homeowner.
ECO red reset button trips when upper thermostat senses overheating.
You many have underlying problem if reset continues tripping:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

Electric water heater can be repaired by homeowner.

Water heater has some hot water.
We know 3 things for sure:
- electricity is ok
- upper element is ok
- tank does not have overheating problem

Here are the suspects:
- Burned or loose wire
- Upper thermostat not working
- Lower thermostat not working
- Lower element not working

What to do:
1) Turn off power, open water heater covers and look for signs of burned or loose wire, especially on lower element. Burned wire on lower element says lower element is burned out.

2) Test lower element.
Lower elements burn out when sediment builds up inside tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

3) If wires are ok. And you do not want to test parts, then replace upper and lower thermostat for 25$. If problem persists, replace lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

4) If you want to test thermostats and elements before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

5) When finished, be sure to put insulation and covers back on tank so thermostats don't receive cool air and misread tank temperature. This will prevent overheating of tank that causes red reset button to trip.

check all water pipes going in and out.tanks are sealed except for these connections.