Put a brand new heating element in it just now and still no heat
[Always disconnect the dryer from any power source before checking.] Dryer heating circuits have several parts in the series circuit that must all work (kind of like a string of Christmas tree lights) so you'll want to check each one in that series. These likely include the motor switch, timer switch, temperature selector switch, temperature controls/thermostats (usually three of these) and all connecting wiring plus the heating element. Of course, one should always make certain the dryer is receiving 220 volts power supply from the wall outlet before starting to troubleshoot the dryer. Most dryers operate with 110 volts, only using the 220 volts for the heater circuit. A dryer getting only 110 volts could run, but not heat. This doesn't happen often, but is always worth checking.
SOURCE: MAYTAG PYE2300AYW ELECTRIC DRYER running but no heating
you need to take it apart if you'd like call 417-926-0106 i'll walk you through it Jim
SOURCE: Maytag performa dryer PYE2300AZW
my dryer was working perfectly fine, but I think i had way too much laundry this day. anyhow, it just stopped working. the weird thing is the timer still runs I turn it to 90 and then it stops at 0. WEIRD!! i had my dad and husband take it apart, but of course we are reading the blueprints and tring to find matching numbers but no can do. we give up. HELP
sign the Dryer Monster
SOURCE: Maytag Bravos dryer heats but does not blow air.
Since you did not provide a model number I picked a similar model for reference using this model number: MDE5721TQO (there are at least 40 different model numbers but the blowers are all the same) You blower is driven directly by the motor so unless the blower itself has come apart or the drive spline in the blower has failed in some way you more than likely have a major build up of lint in your dryer.
You can look here to see the blower location http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5133558&diagram_id=1301439#d1301439
You can turn the motor by hand and see if the blower is turning by losening the housing screws for the blower while using a flashlight. If the blower is turning then you need to find out where the blockage of lint has built up and remove it. I would startt around the lint filter. NOTE The drum will also turn.if you rotate the motor pulley. Just make sure the unit is unplugged while you attempt this. If you do locate the blockage I have found that a well bent into a U shaped METAL coat hanger works well. Do NOT poke any sharp objects into the air ducting areas of your dryer while trying to find any blockages and avoid the heating element area with anything metal or sharp. A vacuum crevice tool works great during this task. Good luck and I do hope you are able to locate the problem based on the information here.
SOURCE: kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)
If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.
SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Kelly
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
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