Question about Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
You should call your vendor for service on any commercial brewer. (Especially if it's on loan from them)
*** the following is for information only as all repairs should be performed by a qualified tech.***
* Since no brand or model given. I suspect this is a commercial coffee brewer as it probably has a plumbed in water line. Bloomfield, Curtis, and Bunn are the most common. I'm using Bunn CWTF for this example but it covers most other brands too.
* The CWTF has a start switch activates the timer (analog or digital) board which turns on the water feed to the brew tank. This forces previously heated water out and sprayed over the ground coffee in the brew funnel. Coffee then drips into the decanter. Under filling is caused by un-calibrated timer or interment timing.
* The timer comes in two types; Dial (old) and Digital. If it's the dial then a simple turn of the dial will make less or more water flow to decanter. You MUST re-brew (no coffee, but use funnel) into the decanter or pot that you plan to use. Don't mix up different size pots as the timer is only good for 1 setting. Turn dial and brew once to check. Keep checking with a brew after each adjustment. Do a final brew just to be sure.
* The digital timer is a bit more complicated to adjust. Sorry, too many switches and options to go into it here. Check Bunn.com for a manual (FREE download) on line. Several methods are listed. The fill and stop is the easiest one.
* If it does not adjust or won't keep the set time then. Replace the timer. Digital timers tend to be sensitive to electrical storms. Analog timers have a dial and are more tolerant of electrical surges.
* Check the water fill solenoid. Should be a definite click when activated. Water filling sound should be very clear.
* No water flow then check the water supply line if it's on.
* Final; this brewer needs service. Call your coffee vendor for advice.
P.S., Older timers usually are reliable. It may have been set for a larger decanter or pump pot. The pump pots come in 2.5L and 3L for the big boys. Decanters are 10 cup and standard 12 cup. Check your office as there may be an unused pump pot or small decanter in a cupboard that got put away for making "too little" coffee. Try a brew in this smaller pot. Any change in pot size requires an adjustment to the timer. This is the only way to get "Less" or "More" out of the brewer. (Yes there is a way to use the "Pour Over" function for one time special brews. Check the manual for this option.)
Posted on Feb 22, 2018
The pic is clogged with coffee or the air bladder is bad. Use the tool on the underside of the tray to clean out pic. If that doesn't work, the bladder will be bad.
Posted on May 14, 2009
It's the spring part on the bottom of that black basket. Now that it's broken there's really no fixing it. The only thing to do is call the manufacturer (800-726-0190) to get a new brew basket. They are open on weekends, so you could call them today and see what they can do (brew baskets are covered under the 3 year warranty, btw). Just have your model and serial number and you can probably have a new one ordered in less than 5 minutes. :)
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Testimonial: "Very helpful suggestion to call the manufacturer. I was told to try the self-cleaning, as calcium deposits could be the problem. worked like a charm."
you need to run a few pots of straight white vinegar through the machine to clean out the lime build up in the tubes. the first time you do it, after it starts to pump the water, shut it off for a few hours and let the vinegar sit in the tubes. after doing this run a few pots of cold water through before making coffee.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
If you make a pre-ground shot but don't put any coffee in it, and it does the same thing you have a blockage in the brew head.
If it run's normally, your grind is to fine. Push the grinder lever to a larger number. It takes 3 times to change to the new grind.
If it still dribbles, remove the brew unit (behind the door)
Holding the handle, the top left side is the brew head. There is an outlet pipe that exits the backside towards the machine (looks like an "L" pipe). 2screws hold it to the top. Remove the 2 screws while holding the manifold ("L" pipe assembly). Once they are removed, lift the l assembly off (becareful, there is an O-ring, spring and inside a crystal ball (don't loose it or your out of luck). Turn the brew unit upside down while holding the brew head in your other hand and the crystal ball should fall out. If it doesn't come out put a towel down and tap the brew unit on the towel. This should force it out.
Now remove the brew screen, by holding the screen with your finger and twisting the thumbscrew (remember thumbscrew, DON'T use the key to install the screen, use your fingers.....
Once the screen is out look at where the screen was. There are 2 holes. 1 big one in the center and a small one to the side.
With the brew unit upside down over the towel insert a paperclip into the small hole and force anything out the other side. I have gotten worms almost a 1" long from this passage. The paper clip has to go from this side to prevent damage to the seat on the other side.
Clean then reassemble. Brew unit on towel right side up. Drop the crystal ball in first. Then the spring small end first on the crystal ball.
Now the O-ring over the spring, then place the manifold on top of that with the pipe towards the machine. Insert your screws (I turn them backwards a little with a little downward pressure until they feel like they drop into the threads. They should turn down easily, if not back them up a little more ( we are trying to find the old threads) and tighten. Install screen, and tighten with your fingers. The screen just needs to be flush with the bottom of the brew head.
Run another pre-ground without the coffee and rinse it out. Do this once in a while to prevent this
Posted on Dec 28, 2010
Testimonial: "It was the grind! I had already cleaned the brew head. Many thanks!"
SOURCE: Coffee maker not working
I've got a B50 as well, and none of these solutions are quite accurate. The problem is with the ball valve directly above the top needle. You first need to remove the handle by taking out the screw on either side. Mine is some size of torks. Then open the hood and remove the two screws from under it. The hood then lifts right off the body. There is a rubber hose that goes into the top part of the ball valve; this must be removed. You can then use a slightly bent paper clip to reach in carefully and push the ball down to unstick it. It is being pushed up by a spring from underneath, so coming from the bottom with a paper clip just pushed it up tighter in the seat. Once it is clear again, put the hood and handle back on.
I think Keurig should send free replacement valves, maybe better designed as well so they don't stick anymore. If not, I am going to see if I can purchase a replacement.
Posted on Jan 06, 2011
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