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When i turn on compressor in just clicks then nothing

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This morning, my Frigidaire FFHS2322MS refrigerator had a pond of water in front, the compressor was clearly off and the lights inside were on. No error code of the displays, they were just bla

Have a technician test the start capacitor on the compressor. When they go bad the motor will draw excessive current which trips the thermal overload switch on the compressor. It usually resets itself once the compressor case has cooled down.
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Fan wont turn

I have taken one apart. reassembled and the fan would not turn, although there was power to the motor and it wanted to turn.
Sorry this is long...only this is about taking the motor itself apart..and I have yet to find a replacement motor.

1. Tried a little WD 40...(only on iron motor Housing!) nothing.
2. Took apart inside of motor. some rust inside..
3. carefully rubbed clean with WD 40..
4. leaned off WD 40 with contact cleaner...
5. Then worked little bearing loose on back side.
-Kind of turned upon reassembly..
6. Found some silicone High temp lubricant and took motor inside part again.
7. a very thin coat of lubricant inside rotor.
-Re assembled yet again..began to turn at high speed, kept running..24 hrs..
- It .finally turned at silent mode. and continues to work
This may be ar beyond what you want to do, however if all else fails...what else can you do? buy another one?
Tips:
1. mark rotor holders with housing. (do not reverse.)
2. make sure you remove all lint, dust, etc inside.
3. the rotor bearing I had to work by hand again and again repeatedly syringing a little WD 40 at a time to until it turned easily.
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I replace my uv bulb and now have no power

Some connection has not been firmly made, or the little safety switch at the back of the machine was accidentally pushed.
1) Check the back plug and make sure it is inserted FIRMLY. Does the machine work now?
2) If not, check the little switch in the back with the 0/- markings. Make sure it is depressed to allow power to the machine (try it after checking the plug.)
3) Check the fuse.
4) Unplug the machine and go back in to make sure the UV bulb is firmly inserted. It needs to be turned so that it "clicks," or "seats" correctly at both ends.

If none of these steps work, go through your Owners Manual step by step, checking all connections and wires. Make sure nothing is visibly loose, corroded, or broken. An owners manual is available at http://www.vollara.com or call Vollara customer service at 1-800-989-2299
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3answers

I have the living air classic. When I turn it on,

The common things to check are the fuse, and make sure the filter tab is making a connection to the safety switch. You can find the fuse and the filter tab on the back of the purifier. Hope this helps.
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I have this air conditioning unit where suddenly stops functioning and no power on the indicator. i have thecked the breaker and it is fine and ON with a three phase supply. I've checked the condenser at...

Hi, I will see if I can give you some idea of what may be happening. I work on these on a day to day basis. So, you have a split system with the condensing unit on the roof, or a package unit on the roof? Sounds to me it is the first one.So, you are telling me that the power supply at breaker below is OK, but you should have a power box at the condenser on the roof. When you reset power to the condenser, that's when you here this blast sound? To me from just hearing what you are saying , it would be the sound of the compressor trying to start up, and it has a internal problem making this noise. Tell me, when it makes this noise, does it trip the breaker again? If so, it is definatley the compressor. You can prove this if you are inclined to do this, is to find the 3 different wires going to compressor, and make sure power is off 1st. Disconnect them at the Contactor or remove the plastc cover from compressor and write down which wire goes to each terminal.Tape the ends so they dont touch metal. Turn the condenser back on and see if this blast is gone. If so, the compressor is dead and you will need a new one.You say you have 3 phase power? This is unusuall for a residential unit, 3 phase units are for comercial unit power. They dont use starting componants like Run or start caps because they have enough power to do the job.3 phase would have 3 hot legs of equal voltage unless it was the older 3 phase which will have a stinger leg with higher voltage then the 2 other legs.Maybe this is a commercial a/c. Also, the compressor is reversable on a 3 phase unit by moving 2 of the 3 wires on the load side of the box, like T-2 and T-3. If these are switched if the compressor is locked up, sometimes you can get lucky and break it loose.Please don't do this, I am just explaining to you a little about 3 phase. Try this so you can elimanate the compressor. The only other thing it could be, if this is a gas pack and you are starting the heat, you can be getting blow back premature combustion? But I don't think this is what you have. It has to be the compressor.So, lets prove it by taking it out of the circuit. all should hold and no noise.Still, a faulty compressor is not a good thing. Let me no. Best of Luck and safety first.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
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4 ton rheem 3yrs old thermostat

It is possible that the relay in the thermostat for "cooling" has gone bad. The relay that runs the blower is different than the condenser relay. Check that you have 24v AC coming from the t-stat to the "y" terminal at the air handler. That same "y" wire should go out to the condenser, make sure then that you have 24v out there. If you have 24v at the condenser then see if the contactor is pulling in. If not then you may have a loss of charge switch that is stopping the current to the contactor. See if you have 24v to the coil of the contactor. If the contactor is pulling in and power is going to the compressor then the compressor has failed. If this is the case the condenser fan will be running but the compressor is not. If neither the condenser fan or the compressor is running then you have a problem in the 24v circuit, which could be a bad wire or a safety switch.

As you can see there are a number of possibilities for your problem. You will need to methodically go through everything to eliminate the possiblities till you isolate the problem,

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem and get you cooling again!

Thanks for using Fixya!

Heatman101
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2answers

My Ionic Pro Turbo air purifier is blowing air in intervals of 30 seconds, blows for 30 seconds then stops for 10 sec. then repeats. Is this normal or do I have a defective unit? Thanks, Jerry

Have you cleaned the unit good and made sure that there is nothing crossing the grid wires? It sounds as if it is cutting off and resetting for some reason. Mine runs continuously. I take an air compressor and blow mine out every time I clean it. Also, on some models, you have to hold the on button down for several seconds to reset it after cleaning. Hope this helps.
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CENTRAL AIR UNIT IS NOT BLOWING INSIDE BUT THE COMPRESSOR OUTSIDE IS RUNNING. WHEN I GO DOWN TO THE BASEMENT TO CHECK THE FILTER-THE BOTTOM OF THE UNIT AND THE FILTER IS WATER LOGGED. ORIGINALLY IT WAS...

There may be a leak. You might try shutting it down and taking a look inside. On the other end, there may be something wrong with your components inside. The compressor outside is to provide coolant. Inside, the fans actually cool the air. Make sure all doors are on the blower downstairs, and if all else fails, call a technician. Good luck!
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Making a constant clicking noise

Clicking usually corresponds to some circuit trying to power up, but being shorted and having to trip. It clicks more than once because it tries to self-reset. Some fiber or mineral contaminant might have messed things up; get it outta there.
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Honeywell F300E not cleaning air.

A newly installed system should still be under the contractor's labor warranty. Call them and ask them to come out to check on the unit and explain what you wrote above. This should cost you nothing and is the best way to get to the bottom of the problem.
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