All outflow stops when I start the motor on my Troy-bilt 2600 pressure washer. What's up?

SOURCE: Maytag washer PAV2300 water over flow

I had the same problem and went out to a website for Maytag washers. That website advised that the problem could be mechanical or electrical. In my case, the problem was a clogged tube and it took only ten or fifteen minutes to fix.
0. Unplug the machine.
1. Open up the front of the washer. Along the left hand side is a long transparent tube. The tube connects to a wallet size container on the side and near the bottom of the tub.
2. Inspect the transparent tube. It may be clogged where the tube meets the wallet sided container.
Note: When the tub is full, it creates pressure in that wallet size compartment which sends air up that tube to a pressure switch located within the panel at the top of the washer. The pressure switch flips and tells the machine - stop filling the tub with water. My machine had a visible clog in the bottom of the tube that carries the air from the bottom of the tub up to the pressure switch.
3. Disconnect the tube and clean. I used a pipecleaner to get most of the mold out. To completely clear the tube, remove the top panel and disconnect the tube from the pressure switch in the top panel and blow air down the tube.
4. Reconnect, test - and you should be good to go. If not, your pressure switch may be dead.

Ron Buice

• 161 Answers
• Posted on Jan 08, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series model #110.26882503 fills slowly

Yes, the only other thing I would do and you may have done this is to put the hose directly over in the washer tub and turn the water on to check the flow. If that's good then replace the water valve.

SOURCE: Troy bilt pressure washer 2200 psi

inlet valve connected to water inlet is stopped-up. Unscrew it, take a safety pin run through valve then take the pin and push through valve connected to pump. should do the trick. (the valve the suction hose for the soap is connect to)

SOURCE: F&P Intuitive washer IW812 very noisy water

Traced the problem back to the tap. Seems the washer in the tap was faulty and producing a screaming graunching noise. Replaced the washer and all OK

GK

SOURCE: maytag epic front loading washer i'm getting an

FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:

•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.


- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.


"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.

If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.

There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.

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