Powerware5115 will not switch on

2-way switches have three terminals and for 3-way switching the centre switch of the circuit has four terminals.

I assume you wish to wire two switches to operate one light - 2-way lighting using switches with 3 terminals?

The supply live is connected to the COMMON terminal of one switch and the lamp L is connected to the COMMON of the other switch. Terminal 1 of one switch is connected to terminal 1 of the other switch and ditto with terminal 2.

It is customary to use a dedicated 3-core (plus ground cable) to connect the switches to each other in order to simplify the wiring.

Basically, the exchange of digital and analog Huawei switch mode, there is a difference between digital switch USES time-division switching, analog switch is the interchange of air separation.That is to say, the way of digital switches is non-blocking switching, analog switches have rope limit of the road.

Pull the covers off the switch boxes and remove the switches but don't disconnect them. Look to see how many wires are connected to each switch. A two way switch should have 3 insulated wires connect to each switch AND a bare copper wire for ground. If you don't have that configuration, then it was not built correctly.

You need special software, which costs money ...

Did you take photo of wiring before disconnecting old switch...you might have wired wrong.
Rewire old switch and see if same problem exists.
Check that new switch is rated for same device.
Attach 2 photos of old and new switches, each wired...so expert can see problem better.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

Test that fan switch is getting power.

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

in order to wire a 4 way switch, there needs to be a total of 3 switches working to operate a device/light. you need a 2-wire coming from power source, 3-wire from first switch to 4-way switch then 3-wire to last switch. white wires (neutral) get connected together. Depending on the layout of the switches. i.e where the power comes from and where the switch leg goes to but a basic 4 -way switch is in between 2 other 3-way switches.

To troubleshoot these issue, for ignition switch replacing procedure:---
Click the link below:---

IGNITION SWITCH REPLACING

It depends on vehicle to vehicle. But it's not very difficult on mot of cars to replace ignition switch. Basic theory of replacing ignition switch is same for all car models. -----

To replace ignition switch on your vehicle, I suggest you few helplinks with proper ignition switch replacing procedure. View its details and you can replace ignition switch on your vehicle.

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Click the link below: ------

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How to remove ignition switch on VW Car models?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-remove-ignition-switch-on-vw-car.html

-------------

How to replace Ignition Lock Cylinder on Acura Car Models?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-replace-ignition-lock-cylinder.html

--------------

Ford Taurus: Ignition Switch & Steering Column Replacing?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/06/ford-taurus-ignition-switch-steering.html

-----------

How to replace Ignition Switch on Acura Car Models?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-replace-ignition-switch-on-acura.html

--------------

How to Replace Ignition Switch on Chevrolet Caprice Classic?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-replace-ignition-switch-on.html

------------

1995 Ford Taurus: Ignition switch not turning OFF?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/06/1995-ford-taurus-ignition-switch-not.html

-----------

Ignition Switch Will Not Turn Off?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/04/ignition-switch-will-not-turn-off.html

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These will help.

Thanks.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you
Switch If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the switch might be defective. Watch our video on switch testing and test this switch for continuity.

Selector Switch If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the selector switch might be defective. Watch our video on switch testing and test this switch for continuity.

Rotary Switch If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the rotary switch might be defective. Watch our video on switch testing and test this switch for continuity.

Rocker Switch If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the rocker switch might be defective. Watch our video on switch testing and test this switch for continuity.

Switch Kit If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the switch kit might be defective. Watch our video on switch testing and test this switch for continuity.

Micro Switch If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the micro switch might not have continuity. The best way to test the switch is with an Ohm meter. See our switch testing videos for help testing this micro switch.

Thermal Fuse If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Main Control Board If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the main control board may be defective.

User Control and Display Board If the range vent hood fan and light are not working the user control and display board may be defective. Check other causes before ordering this board.

Please look at the list below, keeping in mind that this is not an exhaustive list of the switches that your vehicle is equipped with. After staring at the list for a while, tell me what is wrong with your question.

>> A/C High Pressure Switch
>> A/C Low Pressure Switch
>> A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch
>> Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC
>> Blower Motor Switch
>> Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch
>> Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch
>> Brake Light Switch
>> Brake Switch (Cruise Control)
>> Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch
>> Combination Switch
>> Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer)
>> Cruise Control Switch
>> Door Jam Switch
>> Door Sensor/Switch (For Alarm)
>> Door Switch
>> Driver Information Center (DIC) Switch
>> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch
>> Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch
>> Fog/Driving Lamp Switch
>> Fuel Door Switch
>> Garage Door Opener Switch
>> Glove Box Lamp Switch
>> Hazard Warning Switch
>> Headlamp Dimmer Switch
>> Headlamp Switch
>> Heated Glass Element Switch
>> High Pressure Sensor / Switch
>> Hood Switch / Sensor
>> Horn Switch
>> Ignition Switch
>> Ignition Switch, Buzzer
>> Low Pressure Sensor / Switch
>> Neutral Safety Switch
>> Parking Brake Release Switch
>> Parking Brake Warning Switch
>> Power Door Lock Switch
>> Power Mirror Switch
>> Power Seat Switch
>> Power Window Switch
>> Pressure Cycling Switch
>> Rear Defogger Switch
>> Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch
>> Remote Switch
>> Seat Belt Buckle Switch
>> Seat Heater Switch
>> Seat Memory Switch
>> Shift Interlock Switch
>> Sunroof / Moonroof Switch
>> Telescoping Wheel Switch
>> Tilt Wheel Switch
>> Traction Control Switch
>> Transmission Mode Switch
>> Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T
>> Trunk / Liftgate Switch
>> Trunk/Liftgate Sensor/Switch (For Alarm)
>> Turn Signal Switch
>> Underhood Lamp Switch
>> Valet Switch
>> Washer Fluid Level Switch
>> Windshield Washer Switch

I answer questions for free.
I understand electrical devices.
It is unclear how many screws are on the switch you are testing.

If your switch does not show ohms when the switch is in one position, then it sounds like the switch is bad. But you can read information below for more information about your testing.
You can also add a comment and continue the discussion.

Let me provide more information about switches because you seem interested in electricity and the information may help us understand where the other is coming from in case you add a comment needing more help:
2 screws on switch: (excluding ground screw)
An ordinary single-pole switch usually has 2 brass colored screws.
These screws only read ohms or continuity when switch is in one position.
When the switch is in the other position, there are no ohms that pass through the switch.

3 screws on switch: (excluding ground)
A 3-way switch has 3 screws. There are 2 brass-colored screws and one dark-colored screw.
Put ohm tester on dark screw and continuity will show between the dark screw and one of the brass screws.
Flip the switch and ohms will test between dark colored screw and the other brass screw.

4 screws on switch. (excluding ground)
There are 2 screws on each side of switch.
This type of switch might be a special purpose double-pole switch.
Or it might be the more common 4-way switch.
Add a comment if you have a switch with 4 screws.

Below is a typical 3-way switch application showing the dark-colored screws:



Here is a typical 4-way switch circuit:
Notice the switch in middle has 4 screws:


Link below goes to a special application double-pole-double-throw switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/30-Amp-DPDT-switch-a-800.jpg