I have a frigidaire model cfeb786jgb3 error

Typically error code F1 could indicate a variety of issues. The wall oven could possibly have a runaway temp (higher than normal temps), shorted keypad, faulty EOC (Electronic Oven Control) or, display wire harness missing/not connected. Usually, this code means to replace the EOC. You may be able to reset the wall oven by disconnecting the power to the unit for up ten minutes. Usually this will clear most false error codes. You can disconnect power by either unplugging the unit or flipping the circuit breaker off and back on. If resetting the unit proves to be ineffective, I would recommend contacting a professional to move forward accurately

F1 code is a "EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure" Replace your oven control

F3 code is a bad oven sensor the sensor should have a ohm reading of 1100 at room temp. Replace your oven sensor as well.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace

Hi, you stated that you cooked a meal that produced some humidity inside the oven. this is the cause of the F-1 code. the humid conditions that were present at the time, caused the EOC(electronic Oven Control) to short. you will need to replace this control board at this time. it has failed.

I had the same problem with a Wolf L-Series double wall oven (Model DO30) and called for service (under extended warranty contract). The tech told me that the F1 error is a latch problem (you know the one that grabs and locks the door during self-clean cycles). He cleared the error using a series of "secret" button presses on the control panel and the problem cleared. Now, when it happens (which isn't very frequently), I do the same thing he did ... press "0" and "Temperature" for the oven causing the problem and hold them for about 5 seconds. The oven will ding and the display will show some diagnostics, including the error event. Press "Cook Time" and "Stop Time" while in this diagnostic mode to clear the error register, then press "Off". I've also tried to keep the area across the top of the oven opening clean (with a little degreaser), especially around the latch, and I've sprayed a bit of WD-40 into the latch periodically for lubrication and cleaning.

I had the same problem with a Wolf L-Series double wall oven (Model DO30) and called for service (under extended warranty contract). The tech told me that the F1 error is a latch problem (you know the one that grabs and locks the door during self-clean cycles). He cleared the error using a series of "secret" button presses on the control panel and the problem cleared. Now, when it happens (which isn't very frequently), I do the same thing he did ... press "0" and "Temperature" for the oven causing the problem and hold them for about 5 seconds. The oven will ding and the display will show some diagnostics, including the error event. Press "Cook Time" and "Stop Time" while in this diagnostic mode to clear the error register, then press "Off". I've also tried to keep the area across the top of the oven opening clean (with a little degreaser), especially around the latch, and I've sprayed a bit of WD-40 into the latch periodically for lubrication and cleaning.

F-1 is USUALLY a touch pad error, it thiniks something is stuck. The sensor error code is F-3.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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