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Re: range mgr 5745 sealed burner
Yes the burner does twist off. You must turn it counter clockwise about 1/4 of a turn. These can be stuburn at times so what you might want to do is strike it sharply down with the heal of your hand first then give it a twist. this seems to help.
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Your grill uses a push button piezo type of igniter. Each time you push the button you should her a click and a an electrical charge should be sent down a wire to an electrode where a spark will jump from the tip of the electrode to the nearest metal surface creating a spark to ignite the gas. The first thing to do is make sure the wire from the electrode to the igniter is actually connected to the igniter. Then make sure the wire is connected to the electrode. Make sure there are no breaks in the wires insualtion that could cause a short. Check the electrode and make sure it is held securly in place and not moving around. Check the ceramic white insualtor for breaks or cracks casuing a short. If all of this is ok, then it is most likely the igniter itself. You can get a replacement at www.minxenterprisesinc.com for $9.49 plus tax and shipping.
First, you need to determine if it is the spark ignitors going bad or the Ignition Module. If the spark ignitor tips are covered with grease or residue, this will give them the appearance that they're failing. Cotton balls and alcohol, work well to clean the spark ignitors. Also, check the wiring from the spark ignitors back to the ignition module. There may be some wear or even a burn on the wiring. Change the battery in the ignition module. Be sure the new battery is facing the same direction as the old battery, when you install it. Before installing the new battery, check the battery holder for corrosion on the contacts. If you see any, use a Q-Tip and WD40 to remove it.
As far as replacing the ignitors is concerned, you may only have to replace the spark ignitors and not all the wiring. It depends on how the wire is attached to the spark ignitor. If it can be carefully pulled of the bottom tip of the ignitor and then si back on, all you need is the spark ignitor. If not, you'll need the spark ignitor with the wiring attached. All of the wiring, will then have to be fished back to the ignitor module.
More more info on all the parts you may need contact BBQ's Galore 800-752-3085.
I hope this helped you to troubleshoot and determine if any parts do need replacing.
Hello, If your piezzo ignitor is still sparking, but not lighting the burners, then you may have one of the following problems. 1) If you have a standard push
button piezzo igniter or a rotary style igniter, check
for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in
bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It
should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. 2) The
igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else
along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. 3) It's also
possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken
porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the
tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. 4) Your burner may be clogged or rusted at the point where the ignitor sparks to light it. Clean the burner. 5) If your push button ignitor is not sparking at all, it may be stuck inside from being out in the weather. While pushing it, spray it with WD-40 to unstick it. Hope this helps. Douglas
I am assuming your referring to the stove top burner ignitor. Well - I can only say on my Viking 48 inch - it was located at top RHS of the stove on the 'back wall'. I was advised by a 'tech' that it would be located at the back of my stove (ie he would have to pull out the built in unit and would cost me 500$). In fact I replaced the unit in 30 minutes ... I removed the two RHS burners (one screw each), disconnected ignitor wires, removed the bracket holding the burners (one screw), followed ignitor wires to silver box covering the ignitor unit (2 screws), opened it & replaced ignitor. Forgot to say - 1st thing I did was turn off power & gas to the range. Of course you need to ensure it is the correct one for your stove. The ignitor you remove should have a manufacturer part number on it. No calibration required on mine - a sealed electronic unit. Probably about 10 wires that need to be R&R'ed - they are on with reuseable fasteners.
There are three parts to the ignition system typically.
The ignitor that is either in the burner or outside the burner.
The spark ignitor switch that is located on the burner control. (( one for each control ))
The spark modual. the modual creates the hi-voltage spark.
If the burner that does not ignight with its control does not spark but does spark with one of the other controls then the spark ignitor control switch is bad.
You can test it with one of the other burner control knobs. (( just try a working burnder and when it clicks look at the bad burners ignitor and look for the spark.))
If the bad burner that wont ignight does not spark then either your modual is bas or the ignitor is shorting out.
If you see any little spark but it does not spark from point A to Point B like the other burners then your ignitor is shorting and should be replaced.
If your ignitor is ceramic and it is cracked, then it should be replaced.
There could be a short in the wire running to the electrode, or a crack in the ceramic insulation of the electrode. In either case the spark would not always reach the tip of the electrode or would be very weak.
You have to identify the thermocouple by the flame. Some units run sparks constantly to insure that tha flame stays lit. If you see the thermocouple bulb by the flame it is bad and needs replaced (he may have bypassed it also let me know) http://www.vikingrange.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m10110_viking_primer_2005.pdf
It would be helpful if you have a multi meter. Sorry you are having trouble with the repair man. I hope I can talk you through this but if he has made a mess it could be 10 times more work for you. [email protected]
Make sure that the small burner holes near the ignitor are not clogged. if no flame is visibly touching the ignitor, then the ignitor will not sense that it is lit. The fact that it seems to take longer to light than normal leads me to this as well.
If there is good flame contact with the ignitor, then sometimes it will not sense the flame if you had a boilover and water got down between the wire and the ceramic body. This can happen with oil as well. Removing the ignitor (carefully! if you crack it, it will "leak" its spark and not work properly), cleaning it and letting it thoroughly dry will help. Most of the time I just leave the burner on and the clicking will stop after about a minute when the whole assembly heats up and drys out.
If all that checks out, then the ignition module is bad. Mine went out after 6 years use. They are available online (I bought mine from a Viking parts store...surprisingly). Replacement is fairly easy. Turn off the power to the stove. Remove the screws that hold the burner knob/oven knob faceplate to the range (Two are only accessed by opening the oven door, the rest are tucked up at the top of the faceplate and under the top-front lip of the range) The ignition module has many wires attached and they are easy to remove. MAKE SURE YOU ATTATCH THE WIRES TO THE NEW MODULE IN EXACTLY THE SAME SPOTS ON THE NEW IGNITOR. That includes the same ignitor wires that are all colored the same.
I absolutely love my Bluestar. I wish my convection fan was quieter, but the power of the range is simply awesome.
Ralph, you need to look at the electrodes at the burners. They might be cracked or dirty. It's very hard to tell sometimes when they are cracked. The burner cap itself has to have a good ground and the wires going to the electrode should be on tight. You can eliminate the spark module by switching the right and left side burner wires at the module. Once you do that, if the right side works ok, but now the left doesn't, you can be pretty sure it's the module...Catriver..post back.