Window A/C units will dehumidify the rooms as they operate. The unit has drainage at the rear. It is important when installing the unit to ensure that the unit slopes slightly OUTWARD to allow the water to drain to the rear. Otherwise the drain pan fills and the water pours into the room. If the unit IS tilted outward, then check the drainage holes for obstructions.
SOURCE: water leaks out all over the floor from the window
you need to make sure of two things.
1) the AC is 'tilted backwards' just a little bit - to allow the water (condensate water from the evap coil) to drip from the bottom of the AC - out the 'condensate drain hole' - sometimes into a drain hose (usually rubber) or just through the hole to somewhere outside where it doesn't hurt anything.
2) make sure the - condensate drain hole, and drain hose - (if one is used) is clear and not clogged up - to allow the condensate water to drain.
hope this helps
SOURCE: My portable air conditioner Haier started linking
Hi. Check the drain hose and look for kinks and partial blockage. Even algae can often block these tubes. J.
Testimonial: "There was dust covering the entrance of a tube where the water used to flow and evaporate, it was right beneath where the air filter is located. Removed the dust and is working fine again. Thank you"
SOURCE: I have a Haier 5,200 btu air conditioner that
E-1. Indoor room temp sensor defective. replace it.
SOURCE: Haier air conditioner will not kick on to air
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat.
If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the
thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem.
Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor
may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued
operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be
economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for
smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners
for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go
wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a
problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The
next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is
calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there
is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil.
This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working,
the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil.
A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As
you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air
conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities
here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic
way.
There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most
problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and
professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at
repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636709-size_air_conditioner_need
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3623253-window_air_conditioners_clean_every_year
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3633369-portable_air_conditioning_great_portable
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3623166-heating_air_conditioning_scams
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3597468-you_can_add_air_conditioning_to_your_hot
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3583697-how_to_keep_house_cool_without_using_air
SOURCE: Haier Model# HWF05XCK-L 5000 BTU window air
The problem you're experiencing is generally caused by the rear of the unit not being tilted down enough. 1/4" to 1/2" is the general rule. This allows collected water in the drip pan, to run to the rear of the unit, where the drain hole is located. It would also be prudent, to check the drain hole under the drip pan, to see if it's clogged. It can be cleared with a pipe cleaner.
Hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
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