Why does water amount in wash cycle remain the same no matter the weight of the load? Can the control be changed?
SOURCE: just a trickle of water during rinse cycle
You write that the water flows fine during the wash cycle; if you mean while the machine is washing, then it is the pump making the water flow.
You need to watch the water flow while filling for any cycle since it could be slow filling and not running.
Since the same valve(s) control the water intake during washing and rinsing, what you describe doesn't make sense.
I suggest your remove both ends of both hoses and inspect them and the mating connectors on the machine for clogged screens.
If these are clear of any sediment, then the flow control valve is failing.
This is located on the rear of the machine and the screw connections for your hoses are part of the valve body.
This assembly is pretty easy to remove and replace, is a common and not very expensive failure.
If you are in the US, check to see if you have a Johnstone Supply in your area. They sell mostly wholesale to tradesmen but have never turned a private sale away and are far less expensive than dealers with pricing ranging from 30-50% of dealer price.
SOURCE: No Spin Cycle in Kenmore 80 Series Top Loading Washer
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: Following is the Sears site for Whirlpool (110.) models with your model number.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23812100
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
SOURCE: top load Kenmore 800 washer will not fill with water
OK - I have a solution to my problem with this washing machine. Nothing would work except for one of the spin cycles. I thought it was the main switch - the cycle selection and start switch - but I was wrong. The service tech replaced the switch behind the fabric softener. It's the switch that controls the water levels. Part # W10292584. Our government is forcing the manufacturers to put controls on the washing machine to save water. It's a bad idea and is causing lots of problems. Tech says he's replacing them on a regular basis. Less than $100 if you do it yourself. Hope this helps.
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