Question about Chevrolet 1993 Chevrolet Blazer S10/jimmy S15 Radio
Bought a blazer 3 owner thay said ran ruff and bad gass mileg i put battry and gass it fired up running ruff put coumpleet tune up in ran lots better nnext day no start found bad pickup n distrebitur put nw one in started right up went 4 a drile the further i got the wores it ran then died got started but would only run wide open had fun ride home but now wont start it pops a cupple times and smells fludded let site than same thang again and again
Posted by Anonymous on
If it smells like fuel and seems to run really rich my bet is on the fuel injection spider is leaking under the plenum. please go back to school and learn how to spell or at least use spell check.
Posted on Jun 22, 2017
SOURCE: no spark on 1988 s-10
It could be that the ignition module is defective and causing this problem.If it's the original ignition module it may be time to replace it. The ignition module can be tested by your local Shucks or Auto Zone usually for free, The module when its starting to go out will work fine until it warms up, it will then quit working because the coils inside of it short out, until it cools down. If the module is completely gone there will be no spark at any time, The module is inside the distributor under the rotor held in by a couple of screws,
Posted on Jul 26, 2008
Check the ECM for Codes to help you find out what's causing the problem. Here is a simple and easy way to check.
On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the Check Engine. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and Trucks.
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check Engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Counting the codes being flashed is easiest way to trouble shot problems in domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed.
Here is a link with the GM codes. http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_trouble_codes.htm
Good luck and hope this helps
Posted on May 02, 2009
Sounds like a vacuam leak, best thing to use is cold start spray, by spraying the vacuam lines with this you will notice a change in the idle wherever the leak is at.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
throttle position sensor, or check to make sure you have vacume going to the map sensor. Alot of times the outlet on the throttle body gets plugged and there is no vacume at the map--causes it to die. unplug the throttle position sensor and then rev it up and see if its better.
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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