I have a 9hp i/c ohv single cylinder model 21a902 type 0142e1 motor on my log splitter. When I try to start it after three or four pulls it backfires and pulls the pull odd right out of my hand. When I et it started it runs good and as long as it is still warm it will start with no further problems. I've been old the valves need to be reset. According to my manual I have to set the engine 1/4"past top dead center. Is there a mark on the flywheel for top dead center or how do you get it there?

The coil pack wiring is relatively straightforward though the exact wiring, colours and suchlike will vary a little from car to car.

A 4 cylinder engine will have a coilpack containing four individual ignition coils - one for each cylinder, but they are likely to be wired as if there is only two. This is to simplify the wiring and to cut a little unnecessary complication from the ECU.
Effectively those four coils are two pairs of coils - the primary windings of coils one and four are wired in series and similarly the primary windings of coils two and three.

When cylinder number one fires a spark is also generated by coil number four but causes no effect as that cylinder is at the top of the exhause stroke. This is called the wasted spark principle.

The same effect can be obtained by using a single coil per two cylinders of a type which has a single secondary winding which is completely isolated or not grounded in any way. One end feeds one spark plug and the other end is also terminated in a spark plug wire and terminal.

This simplification means the coil pack (4 cylinder example) is fed by only three or four wires (usually four).

I hope this helps.

Pull your spark plug and look into the cylinder. You should be able to see when the piston is at the top of the stroke and then turn the flywheel 1/4" past that.

I service all sorts of Goulds water pumps for a living but will need some more info to troubleshoot your problem. For starters would need to know what voltage feeds it, single or three phase, horsepower, type of controller (pressure switch, Variable Frequency Drive, Three phase across the line start etc.), what you are doing with it, pump model number, motor frame number, etc. etc.

The Honda GX160 is a single-cylinder multipurpose engine, so it doesn't have a timing belt, fuel filter, or any other wires other than the single spark plug wire and a ground. I'm having the same trouble with my Honda GX160. Spark is good, compression feels a bit lacking though, I haven't measured it. I've heard that the carburetor might be the cause, either needing to be cleaned or replaced as a whole. Dunking it in CLR works wonders, and if that doesn't work, you could probably find a new carburetor pretty cheaply.

I'd check the compression now, before getting involved with anything else. And double check the timing because that would explain a backfire and failure to start.

you need three main conponents for the engine to run,fuel,spark,compression . first have someone to crank the motor and put the spark plug lead of the plug and hold it near the block and if there is spark it will jump a inch or so, check the fuel filter , hold the fuel line clear of electirical and heat, crank engine , fuel will flow, when engine is running but running rough as a miss fire disconnect plug lead one at a time till you find missing cylinder

Engines runs for a couple of seconds then loudly backfires with a flash of flame out of the exhaust followed by a plume of black smoke. Then runs sort of ok for a couple of seconds then repeats the backfire again AmanStino Lightning Cable Apple MFi Certified 1M Nylon Braided Charging...

you most likely fried your coil pack/coil packs(some cars have one per cylinder, or one for every two cyclinders or one main caoil pack for the entire engine). The method you used is not the proper way to check for cylinder misfire on a newer engine and will damage a coil pack. the coils are extremely sensitive with regards to current/resistance. the method you used is only acceptable on an older distributor type ignition. the reason you motor is flooding is because one or more of your cylinders are no longer firing. to "unflood" your engine remove the fuel pump relay and turn the motor over for several seconds. this should get most of the fuel out of the cylinders. you dont want to leave fuel sitting on your pistons on new motors with a moly type ring. if you have to remove your intake manifold (plenum is a reference to types of intake manifold, as in single or dual plenum) to access the back three plugs its actually an easy job, requiring only a cheap o-ring style gasket kit. i recently did this on a 2002 ford escape and the kit was only 14 bucks. also most parts store can duty cycle test your coil packs so you can find the culprit. another less likely issues could be poor signal from the cam sensor or faulty ignition module. hope this helps, good luck!

In Briggs & Stratton motors used in mowers or similar equipment the spark is generated by a magneto : a magnet situated on the flywheel passes in front of the ignition coil and generates the spark.
If the engine is backfiring then the flywheel is incorrectly positioned - take it our and rotate it for one bolt

Sabre riding mower. Runs, back fires, almost dies,still runs. Back fires again, then dies and can not restart Please HELP!!!!!! Mower model #1438 14.5/38. Engine Briggs and Stratton, Model #287707, 14.5hp, OHV.