There are different ones, so you need to disassemble enough to get a good look at it, then click on this link to repairclinic.com
http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a8b5c42-x776869726c706f6f6c2032343036303236666d3534/Whirlpool-2406026Fm54-Whirlpool-Dryer-Heating-Element-Parts
and order it. . . They also have movies here giving you some direction on replacing your element . . You'll save a good bit of money . .
SOURCE: CANT FIND MODEL OR SERIAL NUMBER ON DRYER
There should be a nameplate along the door opening. This is normally where Whirpool puts their information. Just open the door and look along the door or door frame opening. The nameplate data can also be located along the back of the operator console on some models. Let me know if you still can't find it. I hope this helps.
SOURCE: No heat to dry clothes. Dryer is 4.5 years old.
By far, on that machine the "thermal fuse" accounts for more than 50% of all heating problems.
Unplug machine and remove back cover. On the air chute in the middle back of the dryer you will see a small narrow bakelite device with 2 wires connected to it. It is held in with 1 screw.
You will need an ohm meter to test it, or remove it and have an
appliance parts house test it for you. If bad replace.
Whirlpool part #3392519.
The second common problem on that dryer is the heating element and can be checked with an ohm meter as well.
On rare occasions one side of the 230 volt supply is out.
The side running the motor is o.k. but the heater side has lost power.
Caution: your dealing with 230 volts here. remove plug receptacle cover and check with a volt meter for power.
SOURCE: heating but drum does not turn
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me
Thank you
SOURCE: heating element broken? It won't dry all the
Go to repair clinic.com. Typed in your model number and found the heating element. Repair Clinic part number is 2438. Third item down in their parts list.
SOURCE: my dryer is an estate whirlpool dryer does not
I'm assuming from the symptoms you posted, that the dryer does run, correct? If so, the fuse box may have checked out, but have you also checked for the correct voltage at the wall receptacle? A dryer will still run, but will not heat, if its missing a portion of the input voltage. The reason is that the drive motor only uses 120VAC to run, while the heating circuits need the full 240VAC service. If you are missing one leg of the input voltage, the dryer will exhibit the symptoms you describe. In addition, depending on when your home was built, some houses use two separate breakers that feed the 240VAC source the dryer needs to run. Have you checked to make sure there isn't more than one breaker that feeds the dryer? If you have checked for the correct voltage, have you also checked the continuity of the power cord to the terminal block? A broken power cord can give the same symptoms.
If the model number is correct, this is a very simple dryer to work on. There are no other switches or relays, other than the door switch and the built in centrifugal switch inside the drive motor. If the door switch were bad the dryer would not run at all. If the centrifugal switch in the motor were bad, the dryer may or may not run (depending on how it is faulted), which may give you the symptoms you describe.
When you checked the components, how did you determine they were good? If you need assistance (just to clarify your measurments), the following two links can give you some tips on how to troubleshoot this problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice
I hope I'm not insulting your itelligence. I ask these simple questions, because they are things that can easily be overlooked. If you need further assistance, please post back and elaborate a bit more on your symptoms, so i can provide you with a more definitive answer. I hope this information was helpful to you.
1,115 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×