Where to buy 126SMD3 power supply TREVI KK450 fridge inside for peltier cell system
Where I can buy a 126SMD3 power supply board it is inside the fridge peltier of TREVI model KK540 but it is craft by a china factory at site www.hanny.com.cn it is possible to find in europe? where I can buy a 126SMD3 power supply board it is inside the fridge peltier of TREVI model KK540 but it is craft by a china factory at site www.hanny.com.cn it is possible to find in europe?
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Your Peltier is most likely shot! You can fix it for less than $10 in about 30 minutes.
Take the back of the fridge apart and remove the fan and aluminum heat-sync. Sandwiched in between the heatsync you'll see the Peltier pad with two wires coming off it. That's what you need to replace. The peltier has a make and model number on it. I would recommend ordering the same make and model. The specs should be 12v DC and less than 5amp and 60 watt draw. Your wine cooler's power supply can only output 5amp and 60watt max power. When you install the new Peltier you'll need to spread new thermal compound on both sides of the Peltier. I recommend Artic Silver Ceramique. You can buy this at your local Radio Shack or any computer store where they sell motherboards and CPUs. Ceramique Thermal Compound
Your Peltier is most likely shot! You can fix it for less than $10 in about 30 minutes.
Take the back of the fridge apart and remove the fan and aluminum heat-sync. Sandwiched in between the heatsync you'll see the Peltier pad with two wires coming off it. That's what you need to replace. The peltier has a make and model number on it. I would recommend ordering the same make and model. The specs should be 12v DC and less than 5amp and 60 watt draw. Your wine cooler's power supply can only output 5amp and 60watt max power. When you install the new Peltier you'll need to spread new thermal compound on both sides of the Peltier. I recommend Artic Silver Ceramique. You can buy this at your local Radio Shack or any computer store where they sell motherboards and CPUs. Ceramique Thermal Compound
I have been all through these, and they are not very repair friendly. If it's under 3 years old Call Cuisinart, they will exchange it.
They are solid state cooled using a peltier chip cooler. There are 2 fans in the back cavity, and 1 inside. Remove everything from inside, and set the temp to cooling. Do all 3 fans run? If the inside fan does not run, no cooling. The fans are common 2 wire 12 volt computer fans, and available at computer parts stores that sell PC cases and components. Next is to check the cooler itself. Remove the inside rear cover. There's heatsink under the inside fan. Does it get cold when the fridge is running? If not, the next step you will need to get the back off. The Torx screws are special, but a quick slotting of the screw heads with a dremel or a hacksaw, and a regular screwdriver will remove them. Once off, note the red/black fan wires. Also see if there is a load of dirt in the heat sink. If it's plugged, no cooling. Back to the red/black wires. The fan wires are thin. The peltier cooler is heavier. Set to cool, Check for 12 volts on all 3 pairs of wires. If there's power, the fans run (inside and out) and the inside heat sink does not cool, the peltier chip is bad. It's major surgery to replace the cip, but it can be done, and there are scads of sellers on E-bay selling 60-90 watt peltier coolers that will work. They are standard millimeter square sizes, just match the thickness, 12-15 volts, and wattage (around 60-90).
If you are not getting power on the peltier cooler chip lines, there is a tiny fuse on the lower left of the circuit board. Check it.
These are not servicable from cuisinart. Even the silly screws to change the light bulb are security torx type. Fans are available at computer parts stores. Fuses at electronic supplies. The peltier chip can be had from E-bay. That circuit board is impossible to get. Any other parts are impossible to get to by the way it's built.
Sorry Brian & Charles, but you missed the boat on this one.
This Black & Decker refrigerator uses Peltier Thermo-electric modules on heat sinks. If you blow off the dust and the unit still does not cool, these modules have probably gone bad.
The heat sinks/modules attach to the back of the fridge with two screws each. Unplug the power, remove the screws and then remove the heat sink/cooling fan units. On the refrigerator side will be a smooth plate with two wires coming out of it. Plug the fridge in and touch this plate. If it is not cold to the touch, your Peltier module is bad. You can buy new ones for about $20 each - Parts Express has the Velleman brand Peltier 2 model. But seriously, you'd probably be better off just buying a new fridge.
Remove the back.
Remove the fans. See of the heat sink is not plugged up with dust. If so vacuum it out.
Get a dc voltmeter. Fire up the fridge. Set it to cool. With the fans running, check for 12 volts on the connector that's on the lower left of the circuit board. This connector powers the Peltier cooling chip. If you have 12 volts, and no cooling the Peltier cooling chip is bad, ir the second fuse is out. There is a small cylindrical fuse near the lower left corner of the circuit board. Carefully check for voltage across it. If the fuse is good, and the fans running, you will not sense voltage across this fuse. Bad, you will read ~12-16 volts.
If your Peltier Chip is bad, it's usually caused by over heating from a plugged up heat sink or fan stoppage. These chips are available off E-bay for ~$13, but require nearly a total tear down of the fridge to change it. 95% of these cooler chips are single layer, square, and vary in thickness. You should find one that is drop-in should you choose to 'Go for it'. Look for a 60-80 watt unit that is the same or slightly thicker, and the same size square.
Just in conversation, what you are referring to is the Peltier heating/cooling components. They are wired in parallel and require a power supply to activate them. These elements have 2 junctions, a hot side and a cold side. Depending on what temperature you you require, the polarities are reversed.Very possible,some of the junctions are faulty assuming you have checked the power supply. Best to replace all the peltier modules.
Peltier devices although not that efficient are known to be reliable. On your described problem, possibilities are:
thermoelectric (Peltier) module(s) (most likely) - the active cooling elements. Most design have several sub-modules connected in series to form an array. Failure of one in between will fail the entire module;
controller board (likely) - or more specifically the section that regulates/control supplied power to the Peltier modules;
sensor (least likely) - most designs would have a sensor for the hotside forced ventilation system. If the external ventialtion (fan) fails, then the controller board would prevent supply of voltage to the modules;
connectors (a possibility) - other than the Peltier effect, it is possible to have electrolysis on the terminals/connectors which would cause corrosion. Check and clean all connectors to expose fresh metal, ensure tightness and positive contact.
An easy check is to test for the presence / absence of voltage to the module(s). If voltage could be found, then it would be the Peltier module(s) that have failed. Absence of supply voltage would indicate the controller board to be possibly faulty. To confirm, determine if there is power supplied to the controller board but none is in turn supplied to the Peltier modules. Absence of power going into the controller board would indicate a power supply problem.
Please exercise due caution when working with a live unit.
DC applied to any standard refrigerator would quickly damage the compressor motor and any fans present since these are all AC only motors.
Some (probably no longer produced) units used DC in their operation;
- Peltier Efffect units that used a semiconductor device that acts as a 'heat pump,' removing heat from inside the cabinet and dissipating it outside.
- A new type of compressor that hummed like a low frequency speaker and surely used DC in the generation of the driving signal.
The first proved to be less efficient than our near century old compressor system and the odd low frequency noise produced by the second could not be contained adequately for home use.
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