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Anonymous Posted on Jul 11, 2014

My dryer works fine...heats tumbles the timer just doesnt advance once it starts therefore the dryer wont turn off on its own

1 Answer

Jorgie the appliance guy

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  • Whirlpool Master 5,639 Answers
  • Posted on May 07, 2015
Jorgie  the appliance guy
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Joined: Dec 20, 2014
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The cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE


my dryer works fine...heats tumbles the timer just - 24804245-k4ataymuwmgrdb2rqqdy5pxt-5-0.jpg

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 262 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2008

SOURCE: My Dryer Heats but won't tumble

do you hear a humming noise? and is air coming out the rear if so the belt has broke if not the motor has gone bad let me know what you find

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Anonymous

  • 67 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 15, 2008

SOURCE: dryer does not tumble, but heats up

Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.

  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.

  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

if this helps please vote me a fix ya

Anonymous

  • 1314 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: Whirlpool Estate Dryer barely heating

jumps on the mony turn your breaker off first ok

Anonymous

  • 574 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 03, 2009

SOURCE: model WED5300SQ0 not heating and timer not working

Well with moving it around and all it could have any number of things happened. If it wont tumble, no lights, no heat or anything check that the plug has 240volts to it. then check the wiring going into the dryer may have broke wires or anything like that. but I would check the plug first if it has no power what so ever. If you check the plug and it doesn't have power check the breaker to see if it is tripped.

Anonymous

  • 13 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2009

SOURCE: my dryer wont start. The fuse box is fine and the

The belt is probably broken . This unit won't start if the belt is broke.

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This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.


I hope this information is helpful to you. If you need further assistance, please go to my profile at: http://www.fixya.com/users/jsrock516 and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions/comments.
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WHIRLPOOL TUMBLE DRYER C3A WHEN I SET THE TIMER IT DOESNT SEEM TO REDUCE TO THE OFF POSITION

need model # But try it on timed dry and see if the timer advances then.If so a thermo is out or no heat at all,.
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My roper dryer works fine, it heats and the timer advances, it just wont shut off at the the end of a timed dry or auto dry. What do you think?

A timed drying cycle uses the timer alone to stop the drying cycle. Once it times out like an egg timer a set of contacts open up shutting off the dryer. Or a set of contacts closes to activate a relay which in turn shuts off the power.
Auto dry usually uses a moisture sensor which would do the same thing as the timer. Once it doesnt sense moisture in the load for a predetermined time it in turn triggers a relay which shuts the power off. Some auto dry cycles just use the timer alone and guess-timate the drying time by the selection.
If yours does not use a moisture sensor then most likely it is your timer/cycle switch. There may or may not be a relay involved.
Most dryers have a basic wiring diagram on the inside somewhere on one of the panels which will help.
Since yours is acting up on both cycles Im guessing you have a bad relay or connection to that relay somewhere IF it uses a moisture sensor.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_32f4b76dad4781c4

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Nothing works or drum fails to turn (tumble dryers)
Ensure that the power supply to the dryer is switched on, the timer is set to the desired drying time and the door is correctly closed. If you have a condenser model, also check that the bottle is empty and is fully pushed into the machine.
http://www.whiteknightrange.co.uk/whiteknight/faq.html

The first thing to establish when troubleshooting the clothes dryer is whether the dryer will start or not. If it won't, start by checking the outlet and the circuit breaker. Is the dryer plugged in or has it tripped the circuit breaker? If the breaker has been tripped, flip it back on and try the dryer again. The drum should turn without a problem.
If both plug and breaker are fine, you'll need to inspect the door switch as you continue to troubleshoot the tumble dryer. When you close the door on the dryer, a plastic peg should click and operate the switch which allows the dryer to work. The peg might be bent or broken, in which case it won't connect with the switch. You can try to straighten the peg, but if it's broken, you'll need to replace it. If the peg is fine, the switch has probably failed and will need to be replaced.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/troubleshooting-a-clothes-dryer-drum-doesnt-tumble#b#ixzz3FOOQgtAT

Good luck!
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If you are setting the knob to begin a cycle AND the drum turns when you start it AND the timer knob does not advance, the timer is likely defective.

Some dryers with truly automatic cycles (using moisture or temperature sensors) will not advance the timer if there is a no-heat condition due to a bad thermostat or heating element. This would show as the dryer tumbling a load forever and the clothes are cold and wet when checked.

If the dryer will not do anything at all AND the timer knob does not advance, check the power (circuit breaker/fuse), then the dryer door switch. When the door switch is defective or the door isn't fully closing, it stops everything, period. There is a thermal fuse on some machines that will also cause this problem.
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im assuming your on the automatic cycle. on this cycle the timer will not advance without heat. check you house circuit breaker/fuse. if one goes the unit will run but will not heat.
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Model WED5300SQ0 not heating and timer not working

Well with moving it around and all it could have any number of things happened. If it wont tumble, no lights, no heat or anything check that the plug has 240volts to it. then check the wiring going into the dryer may have broke wires or anything like that. but I would check the plug first if it has no power what so ever. If you check the plug and it doesn't have power check the breaker to see if it is tripped.
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Roper dryer, timer doesn't time out and not heating up?

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My Amana Model NDG5800AWW dryer has ceased to dry clothes dependably. The Only setting that still sort of works is HIGH timed drying, and this heats up to what used to be the "delicate" setting....

if you are using the auto dry setting and the dryer is still running after 5 hours you either have a timer issue or a thermostat problem.

The timer is driven by a motor, if the timer motor is bad the timer wont time out.

in the auto dry cycle the thermostat has to cycle off and on which then sends power to the timer again advancing the timer.

set the timer in a timed dry cycle for say ten minutes, if the timer advances and turns off then you know the timer works. if it doesnt advance you have a timer motor issue,

if the problem is the auto cycle, you could replace the thermostat, about $20 american. however a clock timer would be cheaper.

Based on how old is your machine and do you want to stick a timer in it after already paying the service man is up to you.

A basic bath towel load should be dry in about 50 minutes, this varies on how good your seals are and how long a vent you are running, if the dryer vent was plugged you already have shortened the life of your heating element.




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