If you have
been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed
purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse)
To fix it,
open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a
pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is
a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can
solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder
on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse
protection, but it WILL work again.
If the link
is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad
cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not
read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery-
this requires some fudging and re-soldering.
Or do what I
did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a
cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving
around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends
together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but
only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it!
Hope that
helps.
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
If your battery reads well below 10-12volts….
Try charging
the battery with a car charger set on low (2 amps max) or a wall transformer
from a phone or some such with a 12vdc output (make sure it is 12vdc not 12vac)
You will need to know which of the charger wires is pos and neg, be careful not
to short the battery as this will blow the fusible link. Connect + to + using
jumper clips or stiff wire jammed into the battery contacts.
Once you get
the battery over 10-12 volts the charger will normally accept the battery.
You can jump
one good battery to the bad to do this, but in all cases watch out that the
wires do not get hot, as this is a BAD sign, often a minute or two will be
enough.
Of course you
may have a dodgy charger, they are not robust at all.
The fans also
****, noisy and sometimes they quit, causing the charger to quit too.
Warning, these batteries pack a punch...be very careful and watch out for shorts, hot wires and exploding cells!
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
Makita carries a one year warranty free replacement and an extended two year if you purchased it when you bought the tool. No, you cannot jump it as you will kill it for sure. Make sure you charger is working properly, Green light flashing means improper power from your outlet or the charger has alot of dust in it and is running to hot, especially if the fan is not running the red light will flash. Blow it out with a moisture-free dust remover and try again. Plug the charger in first before putting the battery on. If the red and green light flash at the same time than the battery is bad. Solid red light means it is charging, solid green light means it is charged. If they are dead it is not cost affective to buy two new ones, as for a little more you can get a new kit and extra tool out of the deal w/ a new charger. Good Luck
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Thanks for the response. Not to happy with Makita though. The drill is great but I know several other people with battery issues too, and shortly after the one year mark. Two dead in a year and a half? If I buy a new kit it won't be from them. Thanks for your time though.
I am not exactly sure what you are asking but I would contact Makita and see what they do. They havae a good warranty and you might be able to get 2 new ones
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