Removing outerseal How do I remove outer seal to access lock

Removing a rear axle on a Ford 1710 tractor can be a complex process that requires careful steps to ensure safety and proper reassembly. If the outer axle oil seal is leaking, it's important to address the issue. However, due to the intricacies of tractor repair, I strongly recommend consulting the tractor's official service manual or seeking assistance from a professional tractor mechanic who is familiar with your specific tractor model.
That being said, here's a general outline of the procedure to remove a rear axle:

1. Prepare the Tractor:
   • Park the tractor on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
   • Block the wheels to prevent the tractor from rolling.
2. Drain Fluid:
   • Drain the rear axle oil by removing the drain plug.
3. Remove Wheels:
   • Remove the rear wheels from the tractor.
4. Disconnect Components:
   • Disconnect any components that are connected to the axle, such as brakes and hydraulic lines.
5. Remove Axle Housing Cover:
   • Remove the axle housing cover by removing the bolts.
6. Access Axle Shafts:
   • Once the cover is removed, you'll have access to the axle shafts.
7. Remove Axle Shafts:
   • Depending on the design of your tractor, you may need to remove various components to access and remove the axle shafts.
8. Replace Seal:
   • Once the axle shafts are removed, you can access the outer axle oil seal. Carefully remove the old seal and replace it with a new one.
9. Reassemble:
   • Reassemble all components in the reverse order of removal.
   • Make sure to properly torque all bolts and nuts according to the manufacturer's specifications.
   • Refill the axle with the appropriate oil.
10. Test:

• Test the tractor to ensure that the issue is resolved and that there are no leaks.

Remember that this is a general guideline, and the actual procedure can vary depending on the specific design and components of your Ford 1710 tractor. Incorrect disassembly or reassembly can result in damage or safety hazards. Therefore, if you're not experienced with tractor repair, it's highly recommended to seek professional assistance or consult the tractor's service manual for accurate instructions.

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https://big-manuals.com

Are you asking about the rubber door boot/seal??? The outer edge is held on by a spring loaded wire that runs around the door opening. You can see it if you lift the outer edge of the boot close to the painted cabinet front. The inner edge of the boot is help on by a very big hose type clamp. Some models you can get to it through the opening after you remove the outer wire. Some models need the washer top removed to get to the clamp screw.

It's held in place by 2 metal rings, 1 just at the edge of the seal of the door opening and 1 at the edge of the seal to the outer drum. Unplug your machine then remove the 1 at the door opening, this will allow acces to the 1 at the drum. If you remove the machine lid it will give you a bit more light to work with and you may be able to access the ring easier to remove it.
Refitting is the reversal of removing it. Fit the drum one first and then the door side and make sure you know which way around the seal fits, usually has drain holes in the bottom section of the seal near the outer drum.

you better get at this soon,the lip-seal is gone from the outer tub and now water has penetrated the bearings behind this lip-seal,the longer you wait the harder it will be to remove these bearings and if its a plastic outer tub you can destroy this tub when removing the old bearings,the inner tub needs to be removed,the rear access needs to be open the motor pulley removed,the c-clip that secures the outer bearing needs removing then the inner tub can come out the front to access these bearings for replacement

Hi, what you are experiencing is problem with the Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

You can get the parts by contacting appliance help on 1-800-470-7119

Remove the shifter by removing the locking bolt completely. Pull the shifter off. Use a selftapping screw and screw it into the seal that you see around the shifter's shaft. Using a pair of pliers you can now pull the seal out. It is quite tight so be prepared to battle some. Once out you will need to source a new one. The sizes you need are usually stamped into the seal but for the untrained eye is gibberish. Measure the shaft thickness. This is the inner diameter of the seal. Measure the outer diameter of the seal and also the seal thickness. These are the 3 measurements you will need, or you can just take the seal to the spares shop and they can check it for you.
To put the seal back in, clean the shaft properly. Apply some grease around the inner and outer sides of the seal. Wrap some insulation tape or similar around the shaft splines and end. This is to protect the inner lip of the seal so you dont damage it. Slide the seal over the shaft. It can now be carefully tapped into place. Be careful not to tap it in skew. Use a circular drift(pipe, socket) that is no more than 1mm less than the outer diameter of the seal.

replace the bearing or wheel hub assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2wd Models NOTE: Refer to wheel bearing service and bearing preload adjustment procedures found in Section 1.

1. Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
3. Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
4. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
5. Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing. To install:
   
6. Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
7. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
8. Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
9. Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
10. Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
11. Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
12. Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
13. Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
14. Install the wheels and lower the truck.

4wd Models The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled. BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT

1. Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
2. Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
3. Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
4. Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
5. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
6. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
7. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm). Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
   Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
   Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
   Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
   Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
   
   
8. Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
9. Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
10. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
11. If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload. NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
    

Removing rotors.

1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.

front loaders- remove door seal clamp band outer and peel off door seal from front of case with power off the door switch/interlock should the be accessible to the side and by removing front two screws at the lock opening. replacement is reverse.