Re: 318i timing marks dont have the timing toool need the...
If your gears do not have marks you can pull the # 1 sparkplug, insert a wooden dowel rod, rotate the engine until the piston is TDC.
remove the valve cover on the 1,3,5,7 side and adjust the cam as needed to fully closed valves(compression)
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if you are a fast learner then this is the next lesson
go out and but a workshop manual
In it you will find how to time the cam shafts , torque tensions if the engine is an interference of free wheeling ( if it is interference you will have to back off all of the valve clearances or remove the cam shafts until you get no 1 piston tdc as moving the cam shaft to get timing marks correct will bend valves and you will have to start the project again
No timing marks. All done with special tools. Pin for crankshaft at gearbox end, camshaft alignment tools, cam locking tool, chain tesion tool. If you havent done it before, leave it to a professional.
as the cam shafts timing is variable and controlled by the oil pressure and solenoid , it is possible that that is where the error is from
if you have followed the instructions and used the correct tools it has to be right
diagrams I have show a twin cam set up with 2 balancing shafts. The marks on the cam shaft point to (left cam shaft 11 oclock the mark on the right point to the 1 oclock position. The chain will have 3 black links-- the top black links will be at the timing marks on the shafts with the 3rd black link directly at 6 oclock facing a mark on the gear. The balancer marks both point to the 1 oclock position with black links on each and the 3rd black link will be facing a mark to the 7 oclock position on the crankahaft gear. Everything is done with the piston at TDC no 1 cylinder so get it there before you put the cam shafts in position or you will bend valves. Crank shaft gear is not keyed to the crank shaft. there are dots on the right hand balancer shaft gears and these dots will be as the 2 dots on adjacent teeth either side of a dot on the meshing gear. I suppose that is all as clear as mud but if you got this far then you will see the marks and marked links on the chains
I have a book here that gives the info as to how to set the timing marks so I will start with the precaution. stated Do not turn crank or cam shafts with the chains removed . Now the rest you have probably done but there is a note here that you may have missed . It says --warning ensure that the crank shaft sprockets are installed correctly. The diagram shows the sprockets together with a dot on each They are assembled with the dots either together or are on the both outsides of the sprockets. To have the sprockets so that the dots are one on the outside and one in the middle is wrong. IN effect the dots either align the sprockets so the teeth are in line which is wrong as the teeth on one sprocket has to point to the middle between of the teeth of the second sprocket. This makes one chain 1/2 tooth out to the other. The last warning is to ensure that the oil gallery blanking plate is installed correctly install one or two chain wedges to take up the slack. at this point I would say that the problem is not having the sprockets assembled correctly is where you went wrong.
remember 1 thing..dont confuse cam timing with ignition timing also if the belt or chain has alignment dots or marks on it ..it can be put on backwards and still line up marks correctly but but in a different position making the cam timming off i have done it and seen it done before like an old chevy when you put timming gear set on you line up the 2 dots alot of people think that is tdc and they set up ignition and go to start it and get pops and bangs well thats because the the install dots are actully 180 degrees out from tdc so you remove the distributor and turn it 180 deg. and now she starts right up i think you have 1 of these cams a tooth off or your using marks incorectly or belt or chain is backwards making dots align in different postion appearing correct
Sukkle julle nog? Het my instruksie nie gehelp nie?. Ek die opgetel, dalk help dit?
The way I understand it is that if #1 is at TDC and the T mark is lined up with the crankcase seam - there is no offset woodruff key (i.e. ignition advancer). If you think about, what's changing (when there is an offset key, that is), is the rotational position of the flywheel in relation to any given crankshaft position (i.e. TDC). So...
IF there is no offset key, rotate the crank so that #1 (and #4 by the way) are at TDC. The T mark should line up with the seam. From there, put the exhaust cam in (taking slack out of the cam chain from the exhaust side). When you go to set the cam into the chain do it in such a way that the cam timing mark is slightly ahead (toward front of motor) of the mark on the cam cap (EDIT - Since you're not actually installing the cap yet simply place it on top of the cam in such a way that there is an even gap between IT and the head surface. This way you can eyeball the position of the marks.). Then install the intake cam in a similar manner. That is, set the cam into the chain so the cam timing mark is slightly ahead of the cap mark. EDIT - When both cams are in place, install the cams caps (follow the torqueing procedure so you don't break them OR the cams!!!). After the caps are installed, grab a dowel and stick it in the cam chain tensioner hole and push the slack out of the chain. This SHOULD rotate the cams back (toward rear of motor) so the marks DO in fact line up.
CAUTION: Keep periodically checking to make sure the T mark is STILL lined up properly while putting the cams in. The crank DOES have a tendency to move around a bit while you're trying to jimmy the cams back in.
If the cams are out it's a bit easier since they are not part of the equation yet. It sounds like you're trying to figure out why the T mark isn't lining up when the cam timing marks ARE lined up. Go once step at a time - starting without the cams - as I described above and you shouldn't have a problem.
If you DO have an offset key, you MAY need to get a stock key to get the timing right. THEN, re-install the offset once the cams are back in. This point / tip was given to me by our resident GURU Reelrazor (who I'm sure will chime in at some point).