I droped the cap on the clorinator. now it does't fit properly.

remove the sump
undo the cap bolts
remove the cap
slipper bearing then slips out
push the rod up the cylinder enough to remove the slipper bearing the same way as you did for the cap
make sure that you install the slipper bearings correctly with the tab fitting into the small recess in the rod and cap
use plenty of oil on the crank pin and bearings
pull the rod back onto the crank pin
fit the cap and bolts
tension to correct tension
make sure that you can turn the crank shaft easily

NOTE ---if the crankshaft will not turn easily but appears bound up
loosen of the cap and check the bearing shell sizes are the same as the ones you replaced , you put the cap back on the right way
(Back to front will jam on the shaft) refit the sump

Trouble Code: P0321

Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance

Possible Causes:


Engine speed sensor has failed or is damaged.ECM has failed.Sensor wheel is damaged or doesn-t fit properly.Sensor wheel spacer isn-t seated properly.

Trouble Code: P0322

Ignition/Distributor Engine Input Circuit No Signal

Possible Causes:


Engine speed sensor has failed or is damaged.ECM has failed.Sensor wheel is damaged or doesn-t fit properly.Sensor wheel spacer isn-t seated properly.

Get yourself a couple of cans of refrigerant and a hose to do this,it comes as a kit at the auto parts store,or ask someone there.Connect the hose to the can with the needle out,then connect the other end to the fitting on the car,there's 2 fittings but will only fit one of them(they have a cap like a tire fill on them)then screw the needle in to puncture the can top and with engine running,the can will empty and refill your system.You maybe need a second can if this doesn't cause the clutch to ingage.Have the A/c ingaged too.[ut the cap back on when done.Dispose of the can properly and keep the hose.Have your system tested for leaks,they make a sealer in the same style cans for leaky systems.

well... your radiator cap should fit properly so start there. If that doesn't work the next step would be to change the radiator valve which should have been done when you changed the radiator... but if they gave you a cap that doesn't fit, why should they do anything else right. You can also change the tempeture valve going into the engine... it may be recording wrong. good luck

Three possible solutions, and I have personally made use of all of them with great success.

1. A common reason why the flow of water through the Pentair 320 canister is insufficient to dissolve the chlorine tablets is that the pool filter is dirty or just too old with ingrained sediment. If your pump pressure is continuously running high then this usually indicates a dirty or old filter that is making it difficult for the pump to get an adequate flow of water through the chlorinator. If thoroughly cleaning it makes no difference, treat yourself to a new filter; it's often an immediate fix and the pump pressure drop may amaze you. Old filters that have served their time are deceiving. They may look clean but the fine sediment trapped in their fibers can seriously degrade performance downstream in the chlorinator.

2. Another trick to help SEE what is going on is to replace the short black feeder hose to the Pentair 320 canister with food grade silicone tube, 5/8" outside diameter, 1/2" inside diameter, and a 4" long piece of 1/2" diam Pyrex tubing inserted into the middle of the silicone tube to serve as a clear sight glass. Silicone tube is rated 500 degF and is available on eBay. Pyrex tube with an outside diameter of 1/2 inch (13 mm) can be bought cut to length for about a dollar per inch from eBay sellers. I also strongly recommend swapping this new feed tube assembly to the UPPER inlet of the chlorinator and moving the plug from there down to the lower inlet. See attached photos.
You will need a 9 inch and 4 inch length of silicone tube, and a 4 inch length of Pyrex tube. Insert the ends of the Pyrex tube 1/2 inch into each piece of silicone tube with some plumbing PTFE Teflon paste smeared all around the outside of the Pyrex ends. Do not get any paste inside the Pyrex tube, and do this rotating the Pyrex as you insert it into the silicone tube to ensure that it forms a complete seal. Then install a pair of 5/8" automotive hose spring clamps over both joints, so 4 clamps in all. I used Corbin clamps number 705-1303 from Napa auto supply, installed so the crimp tabs are rotated to be on opposite sides of the tube.
Now you have a new feed tube 16 inches long in total, 3 inches of which is the Pyrex sight glass. Just take the unions and spring off the original black hose and transfer them to the new feed tube, putting the spring on the longer piece of silicone tube. The 4 inch piece of silicone tube should be at the top of the feed where it enters the Pentair control valve.
You will now be able to observe the rate of flow of bubbles in the Pyrex tube (transparent silicone tube may become opaque over time because of the chlorine but Pyrex remains clear) and know if water is proceeding up the tube and then cascading down over the chlorine tablets. Adjust the Pentair control valve to check if the bubbles speed up and slow down.

3. Lastly, when you open the Pentair 320 to insert new chlorine tablets, the water will normally drain down and out of the canister. IMPORTANT - When you restart the pool pump, keep the cap OFF the canister but have it ready. Assuming you have the Pentair control valve set above 0 (zero) flow, you should soon see water starting to flow through your new PVC feeder tube and then entering and rising up in the canister. When it gets past the top of the chlorine tablets screw the cap on until it feels firm but not cranked hard. If it leaks a little, tighten until that stops. Now you have got rid of that potential air trap that can prevent water rising to completely cover the tablets. Do this EVERY TIME you add new tablets to the canister.

I hope they reset the code for you.
Most times when that code occurs it's because the gas cap wasn't put back properly when you got gas.
If they didn't reset it take it back and ask them to reset the code.
If it doesn't come back you know it was a loose gap cap that tripped. If it does then you need to start looking closer. 1st make sure the cap seats well and seal the filler tube. If not replace it.
A small vacuum leak can be difficult to find but you should start by examining the vacuum hoses for cracks ESPECIALLY where connect to their fittings. If cracks are found just cut the end off and reinstall the hose.

If will not charge compleatly try droping a single regular asprin in each hole . This will clean the grids in the battery and will not hurrt anything, Good luck to ya.

To remove all smells from a fridge,defrost it completely,not using ANY heat.then wipe it out with clorine bleach,not forgetting the drain (if fitted).leave the door open to allow the clorine to "gas off"then turn it on and allow it to stand for 24 hours before loading up with your foodstuffs.(make sure ALL food is covered/wrapped to stop condensation/frost damage).i do mine EVERY year gives me an excuse to get rid of the beer.......

Things you can do to cut down on frost.
1.make sure all seals fit flush to frame.
2.use a thermometer and set freezer to -18c(beef will keep upto 12months).
3.wrap all food as airtight as poss.
3.do not overfill,leave space for air flow through drawers/shelves.
4.defrost every 2/3 months in humid conditions using clorine bleach to clean interior,and dry thoroughly.(leave door open to dissipate clorine gas.)

smell is urea,it is a gas produced when plastics get hot,it will go away in time,but also check the drain for a blockage (syringe with clorine bleach)and if fitted, wipe out the condensate pan with clorine
last make sure the door seals fit all round as iif not flush any condensate will drip out from the front bottom.