How to solinoid installation - Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Desktop Telephone

if you can use the winch manually by pressing buttons on the winch then the problem will be in either the remote unit(Battery in back to front) or the receiver in the winch

On the valve body inside the trans pan

Google the question & look at a pic

More than one solenoid in there

Have to do some testing & find a problem,
before you install parts for no reeason

Hi Bryan...
Sounds like the solinoid is faulty...change out the solinoid and you should solve your starting problems
Please take time to rate me
Bud

should only be 2 or 3 with small & large eyelets. small(usually purple) to the S side of starter solinoid bigger to the main starter solinoid connection where the positive battery cable goes
if there is a remote starter system installed then there maybe other wires but by looking at connectors you should. hope this helps

hi, i think you have put the MAIN HEAVY CABLE direct to the STARTER MOTOR on the SOLINOID. this will keep the starter motor running. take battery lead NEGATIVE CABLE OFF the BATTERY, and change the MAIN HEAVY CABLE from the SOLINOID terminal to the other MAIN terminal on the SOLINOID and NORMALLY it SHOULD go with a SLIGHTY (smaller cable this GO'S to the FUSEBOX rest of car POSITIVE FEED). the other small wire is the solinoid START WIRE. the solinoid has 2 circuits the first circuit is HEAVY BATTERY LEAD to 1 terminal on the solinoid. the other side of the solinoid HEAVY CABLE to STARTER MOTOR. this is only 1 side of the SOLINOID (THIS IS A VERY VERY HEAVY SWITCH). the other side of the SOLINOID is the START SIDE (REMOTE CONTACT) of the SOLINOID, by turning the IGNITION KEY to STARTER POSITION, this operates the SOLINOID. this makes contact to run the starter motor. once the connections are done REPLACE NAGATIVE BATTERY LEAD and start the car. gerry

Install new spark plugs. Carbon build-up on the nose cone of the plugs is robbing power that would normally be your spark. Inside the starter solinoid, a spark jumps from one contact to the other as the solinoid makes and breaks contact ( starter button pushed in and out ). The moment when this happens, the voltage is increased and the engine fires in spite of the carbon. If new plugs don't fix the problem, chances are a new solinoid will. The internal sparking can pit the solinoid contacts and lower the voltage needed for proper spark.

There is a solinoid in your door that actuates the locking mechanism. If one of the wires is loose, or somehow disconnected it will not work. Since the others work, unless your car has a fuse for each door, the problem will not be a fuse. It could be that the solinoid in that door is burned and requires replacement. A test light on the solinoid contact when trying to lock it will demonstrate whether there is power TO the solinoid. If there IS power to the solinoid, the solinoid is bad, if there is NOT power to the solinoid, you must find the disconnect. Usually it is one or both of the wires connected TO the solinoid.

Hi,
Check under your dishwasher usually on the front left corner... there are just acouple of screws and a couple of hoses to change to replace this.. actually a fairly simple deal.
Just check out my tip for how to buy parts online and the tip on the valve...
Here they are...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4021363-dishwasher_trouble_no_water_entering

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

heatman101

I never heard of a starter solonoid coming with shims. Did you replace the starter or starter solonoid?
What engine do you have?

Had the same problem after replacing over seven water valves and installing a water regulator in the water line to the refrigerator with no help. Had to reduce the water pressure to about 27 pounds the reduce most of the drips. It drips an amount about the size of a quarter and when the water gets the coldest it stops the drip, but there is always a droplet at the end of the water disperser tube.

The problem is with water stored in the refrigerator side of the box. Water come in and does not leak. After the water gets colder it expands and oozes drips from the water dispenser. It is worse with the roll of tubing behind the crisper drawer on the bottom, because there is no room for expansion in the tubing. We replaced the tubing with and older style tank and it helped some, but not completely. The solution is 1. Try to buy a refrigerator with a tank instead of the roll of tubing in the bottom of the refrigerator side. 2. Don't use the water dispenser. 3. Reroute the tubing directly to the water dispenser and bypass going into the refrigerator, the water will not be as cold. 4. Avoid those built by Whirlpool.