Is there a manual for an old box fan from sears Model lS7-3?

Dawn...Dawn...Dawn! What am I going to do with you? Do you expect me to tell a Lady how to crawl up into the attic (or basement) and go in with all the DUST! Dirt and spiders! Just to clean the Heating/Cooling coils?! Do yourself a favor. Spend the $100 and have a HVAC (Air Conditioning) service your heat pump. Sears will do it. Tell them you DON'T want to buy a New one!!! Be assertive! They will tell you EXACTLY what is wrong. You may have a bad thermocouple (fancy name for a copper wire device that detects when to shut off and on) to bad valve that is stuck open too much! Stop guessing here. These units are complicated. Tons of wires and the blower fan gets clogged up with dust. I took one apart and vacuumed it out and it made all the difference! You DON'T want to do that Mi-Lady! Ask at Home Depot, Angie's List, Or the back of the Phone Book has Coupons for just this issue

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_b77d19396bfe2249

Frost build up is normal... and SHOULD be expected...
You should check your DEFROST PAN at the bottom
(it should have STANDING WATER evaporating daily
(dust is usually an indication of DEFROST FAILURE
(easy to fix))

ALSO the FAN should NOT run with the door open...

My best advise ... if indeed that was ICE...
typically caused by air intrusion...
(sometimes just result of a cube stuck in the
(door service) chute.. or a pizza box holding a
door ajar (worlds will not end)))... Clear that ICE
and easily expect another 9 years of faithful service...!!

You need to allow that machine to defrost at room temperature
for as long as it takes to melt that ICE... COMPLETELY.

Helping it with a fan at ROOM TEMPERATURE is fine,,,
but ABSOLUTELY use no heated air (damage can occur).

Good temperatures in Refrigerator/Freezer sides is a
VERY GOOD indicator...

ELSE...
look over your door seals and make sure they are in full
contact ... ALL-THE-WAY-AROUND.

Comment me back...

You can do this (inexpensively)
Common Refrigerator Symptoms Symptom Diagnosis Sears PartsDirect ... SEARS parts were getting pretty competitive...
Now I cannot push it into a PRICE without talking to one of their CLOWN HEADS (pushy parts folks... My opinion).

Carnac the Magnificent

Please check the filter. The filter is located behind the front grill. If there is a lot of dust & dirt on the filter, it will reduce the airflow over the coil significantly - causing freeze ups. A filter that is missing will require a thorough cleaning of the coils to remove the dust and dirt, then installing a replacement filter. There are products sold at hardware stores, home improvement centers, etc. designed specifically to clean these coils easily. You should be able to get a replacement filter for the AC from Sears.

If the filter is present and clean - there could be a problem with the refrigerant charge, or other problem. Many times, an AC units of this small size, it is cheaper to buy new than invest in repairing a 3 year old unit.

Please rate this reply if helpful - good luck!

You need to check the Condenser coils, these are copper coils of tubing usually located on the back of the unit near the ground. They need to be free of all dust and grease to work at maximumefficiencyand it is recommended to clean them every 6 to 10 months. If those coils are already clean, the next thing to do is check the evaporator fan(The fan inside the unit). See if it's running. If it's not, check the coils behind it. If the coils are frozen up then you probably have to change out the fan motor.If they aren't frozen up then there may be a refrigerant leak or a bad compressor*. In order to legally reclaim, recharge, or test refrigerants you need a special certification from the EPA. If you need to do so I recommend you call in a certified technician.
If the lights, fans, and compressor aren't working at all, check your fuse/breaker box to see if anything is tripped or blown. If the lights are on but nothing is working, The thermostat may be having problems.
*To replace the compressor you need to reclaim and recharge the refrigerants from the system.

You need to check the Condenser coils, these are copper coils of tubing usually located on the back of the unit near the ground. They need to be free of all dust and grease to work at maximumefficiencyand it is recommended to clean them every 6 to 10 months. If those coils are already clean, the next thing to do is check the evaporator fan(The fan inside the unit). See if it's running. If it's not, check the coils behind it. If the coils are frozen up then you probably have to change out the fan motor.If they aren't frozen up then there may be a refrigerant leak or a bad compressor*. In order to legally reclaim, recharge, or test refrigerants you need a special certification from the EPA. If you need to do so I recommend you call in a certified technician.
If the lights, fans, and compressor aren't working at all, check your fuse/breaker box to see if anything is tripped or blown.
*To replace the compressor you need to reclaim and recharge the refrigerants from the system.

You need to check the Condenser coils, these are copper coils of tubing usually located on the back of the unit near the ground. They need to be free of all dust and grease to work at maximum efficiency and it is recommended to clean them every 6 to 10 months. If they are or have recently been cleaned then make sure the inside fan (if there is one) isn't being blocked by anything and make sure there is adequate airflow throughout the refrigerator.Also you need to make sure the copper coils behind the fan aren't freezing up either. If they are then there is probably a problem with the defrost element. The condensate drain may also be the cause of the problem. To find the condensate drain, remove the panel from where the cold air is coming out and there should be a tube or a hose that allows the condensate to drain out.
If none of these seem to be the problem then you may have a refrigerant leak and you need a certified technician to take a look at it.

Does the compressor shut off when the fridge reaches 55deg? The compressor is the small black motor 'tank' connected to the copper lines. If you can't feel it vibrating or warming up then it's off.
If it stays on and continues to attempt to cool the refrigerator then you need to check the Condenser coils, these are copper coils of tubing usually located on the back of the unit near the ground. They need to be free of all dust and grease to work at maximum efficiency and it is recommended to clean them every 6 to 10 months. If they are or have recently been cleaned then make sure the inside fan (if there is one) isn't being blocked by anything and make sure there is adequate airflow throughout the refrigerator.Also you need to make sure the copper coils behind the fan aren't freezing up either.
If none of these seem to be the problem then you may have a refrigerant leak and you need a certified technician to take a look at it.

Firstly check the Condenser coils, these are copper coils of tubing usually located on the back of the unit near the ground. They need to be free of all dust and grease to work at maximum efficiency and it is recommended to clean them every 6 to 10 months.
If they are or have recently been cleaned then make sure the inside fan (if there is one) isn't being blocked by anything and make sure there is adequate airflow throughout the freezer/refrigerator.
If neither of these seem to be the problem then you may have a refrigerant leak and you need a certified technician to take a look at it.

sorry but you need to purchase a new fan.
some times the motor is not aline correctly and the rotor "part that spins the blade" rubs on the stator "the part with the copper wire:" the motor
over heat with the friction, then smoke followed by the coil burning.

Had a burning smell coming from the vacuum. Opened it up and noticed sparks in the motor area. Ordered a new motor from Sears and replaced it. Works great now.