Why the compressor stop e before the temperature is good?

I had accidentally overcharged a unit with freon one time (r410a freon), and when the unit stopped, the compressors rotor would spin backwards and make a loud "knocking" noise. This was on a scroll compressor, not a reciprocating compressor. Also, most compressors have a check valve, allowing freon to circulate in 1 direction only. And if it fails, when the compressor stops, the freon will rush opposite its normal direction of flow, and will sound off as a knocking noise(again, I've seen that on a scroll comp). That may make your indoor coil shake. I've seen/heard that make the copper lines shake but never the coil. Hope this helps! And FYI... Most ac service techs can check "superheat and subcool" as well as freon pressures. Without checking these 2 temperature measurements, we are just guessing as to how much freon is in the system. Make sure to ask politely beforehand for your service tech to do so PROPERLY when he checks the freon levels per factory specs, which should be on the units technical data located on the outdoor unit.

Set the freezer to a warmer temperature and see if the unit stops.. If it stops place a know good thermometer in the unit and set to normal freezer temperature.

Check the next day and see if the unit was able to reach below "0"F

Set to lowest temperature and check again the following day. See if the unit was able to achieve below "0".F

If low temperatures are not achievable it is likely that the unit is low on Freon or compressor is going bad.

Hope this helps?

Hello friend, thanks for the post!

Based off the information you have provided your compressor can be hot to the touch because it is working to help cool down your refrigerator. I would allow it the opportunity to maintain proper temperature inside of your appliance before it stops running. I hope this is helpful. -Matt

This is normal if your freezer is in good working condition. If your compressor runs constantly then there is a problem. Once the unit reaches the set temperature the compressor shuts down. The set temperature should be between -2 & +2 degree F. The set temperature also depends on how full the freezer is. There will be a time when the freezer like refrigerators will shut down. This is relative to the term, "Frost Free". The unit will shut down for about 10 minutes. This occurs ever 8-10 hours. The heater turns on to defrost your freezer coil. It sounds like you are in good shape.

When the compressor is working it will be cooling the refrigerator to the desired set temperature,when the desired temperature is reached the compressor will stop, that is quite normal....it will come back on again when the set temperature drops......the more that you open the fridge, the more the compressor has to work as everytime the door is opened the temperature inside the fridge will go up.

There seems to be a problem with the wiring of the thermostat. Apparently the thermostat is calling for cool (if wired properly), but is not being satisfied. The thermostat is just a switch. When there's a call for cool, the thermostat sends 24-28 volts to the contactor (inside the condensing unit to start the compressor and outdoor fan). The indoor fan is energized through the fan relay (inside the air handler). When the temperature in the conditioned space reaches the set temperature,then the thermostat cuts the power to the contactor and it stops the compressor and outdoor fan. Check that the compressor is actually running, if not, check for 24-28 volts on the wires feeding the contactor, if there is, and the contactor isn't closing then the contactor is defective. If the contactor closes and the compressor doesn't come on, check the capacitor. If the capacitor is good then check your compressor motor. I suspect you have an improperly wired thermostat

It is probably caused from one or more of the four rubber bushings that mount your compressor to the refrigerator frame. The bushings wear over time and causing the compressor bracket to have a little play. Then when the compressor stops it moves the frame slightly bumping against the mounting bolt causing a slight to moderate sounding clunk when stopping, Also check a lines and cords as a cord refrigeration line near the compressor or fram can also cause the problem.

Does it run longer at a higher temperature say 20° or 21°and what's the outdoor temperature?
Try to run system at a higher temperature, to see if you still have the same problem, if you don't then you may have a low pressure switch opening and shutting the compressor down. If this is the case the outdoor temperature may be too low, dirty filter or indoor coil, fan speed too low or low on refrigerant.
If not then it could be run capacitor, loose wire or thermostat.

So only fan is running, the compressor not running okay check the voltage going to the compressor. The connection is coming from Thermostat or temperature controller, if there is supply going to A/c Comp. check the safety thermostat relay above the compressor.

It could be a bad compressor or the Start Relay that is bad, an easy way tell if the compressor is bad or not. If the compressor is hot to the touch it's probably the Start relay is bad, but with the Fridgeidare they have had some compressor issues. Good luck