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I lost the screws to the wheels on the back and just used a longer screw turns out it punctured a tube and gas and oil spewed out can you replace it? is it worth replacing it?
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I would say it is not an issue with the piston and rings, any oil leaking from the muffler has to be unburnt oil from the fuel/oil mix, if not already you should run it at a 50-1 mix, also make sure the engine is not running too rich on the fuel screws, check the condition of the air filter as a blocked filter will richen the mixture.
It is probably a 6mm screw. 4mm and 5mm and 5.5mm are also possibilities. Just go to a hardware store that has a nuts & bolts section and find the metric screws. Try the 6mm & if that is too large try the 4mm etc..
Simply buy a replacement spoke. Unscrew the dustcap on the tyre valve and deflate the tyres inner tube. Remove tyre using tyre levers(as you do to repair a puncture). Next remove the inner tube to reveal the spoke tensioners. undo the tension nut and allow the broken spoke to fall out, feed the other part of the broken spoke out of the hub. feed the replacement spoke through the hub and into the hole on the wheel rim. Now screw on the tensioning nut to the spoke.Tighten up to the same tension as the other spokes. replace inner tube and tyre, then reinflate. Viola!
The condenser is the part in front of the radiator.
You could try using some cable ties. use the black ones as they are UV resistant.
you could also bend up some tin and find a safe way to screw it to the condenser like taking out an existing screw and adding your bracket to it. Be sure to use the same screw. then attach the other end or your homemade bracket to a secure place on the truck. You can do the same thing to this end and take out a screw that is holding some other part on your truck together and your bracket to it.
Be careful when working around your a/c system because If you puncture the tubing you will then have a really big paper weight. you will know if you have punctured the tubing when it starts to hiss at you.
The reason for using the same exact screw is if you use a screw even an eigth inch longer it could reach the tubing. Even if it does not immediately cause a hole the vibration will rub a hole in the tubing in no time.
I let the screws soak for a few days in release oil but with no success. I decided the only way to get the seized screws out was to drill and tap new holes through the hob and into the hob burner mixing tube support flanges. This allowed new screws (stainless as opposed to the standard, chrome plated steel screws) to be screwed into place. Once this was done I then drilled out the heads of the remaining seized screws. This allowed the hob tops to be removed so that the oven thermostats could be changed. The hob screws were then screwed back into place and lubricated with loads of high temp. copper grease to prevent corrosion. I will also remove and re-grease these screws every six months or so to prevent any chance of seizure in future!
A few points to remember: (a) make sure that any holes in the hob top are sealed with something such as a screw coated with high temp fire cement etc. to prevent any possibility of unburnt LPG getting into the space below the hob top. (b) make SURE that you do not drill or tap into anything that could damage the cooker and cause a gas leak or damage any of the gas ignition leads etc. (c) Make sure that the appliance is totally 'gas tight' after doing any work which will disturb the gas connections, and (d) If you don't have gas qualifications and are not sure of what you are doing then get an expert, registered gas engineer to do the work for you. Don't take a chance with gas!!
Loosen up the hub nuts. Center the wheel between brake pads. Put something like a screw driver in the space between wheel and frame to keep the wheel centered and not moving as you tighten the nuts.
sounds like the belt needs tightenig, take off the back and you should see motor adjustment screws at the base. make sure it's unplugged.
Hope this helps !
A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO
I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak.
On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement.
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Almost always a weak oven igniter. Remove oven floor by removing 2 screws at rear of floor. Remove flame spreader from burner, if it has one. Turn on oven and see if igniter gets red. It's the caged thing on burner tube. If it does but doesn't light gas, replace igniter. UNPLUG UNIT FIRST!! Put dishwashing soap on threads of 2 screws holding igniter in place. This will allow it to come out easier. Do-not use oil. It will make your oven smell like a diesel truck. Remove screws. You will have to remove drawer in front. Underneath you can fin wires from igniter. These will be cut at igniter and connected to igniter with enclosed wire nuts. The 2 wires to igniter go either way.
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