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Dayton heater 3e133

We seem to have a bad control panel on the heater-what do we do?

Posted by onestopchip on

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  • Anonymous Dec 02, 2007

    THE HEATER WHEN I PLUG IT IN IT TURNS ON THEN RIGHT OFF

  • giersgears Dec 04, 2007

    the gas flow button will not stay press on to run the fuel.

  • Dgonyer64 Dec 01, 2008

    I have several of these heaters, but the one problem I do have is with the electric fan/heater switch. They refuse to operate properly when turning, and often won't allow the heater to operate at all

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Anonymous

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  • 625 Answers

Dayton is put out by grainger supply go to their site and locate parts for your unit.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

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90000 btu high intensity infrared ceiling hung heat. Have replace twice and Honeywell gas valve once. Always starts and runs first time then never starts again. Coils on gas valve keep burning up. ??


Dayton 3E134E Troubleshooting guide - manualzz.com

manualzz.com/doc/1285710/dayton-3e134e-troubleshooting-guide
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The 3E133 (or similar) Infra-Red Heater with correct voltage to the circuit board should produce a spark at the spark ignitor rod within a few seconds of having power applied. If it doesn't, one of the following could be the problem:1. circuit board (ignition controller) is bad2. The gap between the spark ignitor rod and the middle rod (ground) is incorrect. It should be between 1/8" & 3/16"3. There is not a good ground. This could be due to rust or a loose connection at any point between the equipment ground and the spark ignitor rod, including the ignitor mounting screws.4. The spark ignitor rod or its orange wire is grounded, such as touching metal and thus "short circuiting" rather than allowing the spark ignitor rod to be 1/8" from "ground".
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1 Answer

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The 3E133 (or similar) Infra-Red Heater with correct voltage to the circuit board should produce a spark at the spark ignitor rod within a few seconds of having power applied. If it doesn't, one of the following could be the problem: (1. circuit board (ignition controller) is bad. (2. The gap between the spark ignitor rod and the middle rod (ground) is incorrect. It should be between 1/8" & 3/16". (3. There is not a good ground. This could be due to rust or a loose connection at any point between the equipment ground and the spark ignitor rod, including the ignitor mounting screws. (4. The spark ignitor rod or its orange wire is grounded, such as touching metal and thus "short circuiting" rather than allowing the spark ignitor rod to be 1/8" from "ground".
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After the sparking begins, the circuit board needs to prove the flame is present or it will quit sending voltage to the gas valve, then lock out after a few attempts. Flame proof is 1 microamp (1 millionth of an amp) DC between the flame sensor rod and the ground rod (middle rod). This DC amperage is produced by the current flowing through the flame between those two rods, and up the white wire to the circuit board. The flame sensor rod and the ground rod must be in the correct location, which is about 1/16" from the ceramic grid, maybe even 1/8". Neither rod should be "shorted out" (touching each other or any nearby metal), otherwise current is not flowing through the flame. Make sure the wire connection at the flame sensor rod is not loose or corroded.

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Check the flame sensor and all connections of the ground from the burner to the ignition control...
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for additional help with Dayton units go to www.grainger.com
they sell that brand and have their own repair help techs.

heatman101

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