I have an intex chlorinator and an intex 24' x 48" round pool. I added only 250 lbs of salt, but the table said 290 lbs. I never got a "low salt" reading. When the water level got low I added water and forgot about it, so it over flowed. I still didn't get a low salt reading. Now my water is GREEN. I added 50 lbs of salt, ph down and super shock. It clerared up for a day then turned green again. The test strip says the ph and alkalinity is ok, but the free chlorine is off the chart. It's a dark sage green.

High chlorine can cause problems too it will give false readings for your ph and alkalinity.
The most important thing to remeber is that there is a sequence to follow.
First buy a test kit for salt about 11 bucks for 10 tests. you need to have the ppm's at 3000
if it is to high drain 20% water re-fill and filter/curculate for 6 hours then test again. once at 3000 then go for your chlorine it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 with a test kit now with those 2 in line go for ph adjustment ph should be as close 2 7.6 as possible. Ph will cause more problems like cloudy water or algea more than anything else.
another thing you need to realize is that the intex salt system sucks. Once you set it for the # of hours to chlorinate you are basically guessing as to what is needed. Yes there is a guidence chart as to hours to run but it is over kill and lets too much chlorine be generated start with 3-4 hours of generating but remember also that at 4 hours generating that is nowhere near enough filtering
you will need to shut power off get it out of sleep mode and continue to filter
on avberage a pool should be turned over 3 times a day my pool 7000gl and the 2000gph all in one intex salt pump needs run at least 10 hours a day alone without the chlorinator
my pool only 18' so with your total gallons it will be longer
one last thing to consider is that when in chlorine generating mode the filter slows down because of all the electronics. You can not hear it happen but if you put your hand in front of the discharge you can tell