Rheem RHSL-HM2417JA Multi-Position Air Handler - 24,000 BTU, 3 CFM Logo
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Anonymous Posted on Jun 26, 2014

Rheem wiring diagrams

Wired unit to thermostat and to 2 ton heat pump condenser low voltage r (hot) from condenser to stat to airhandler g (fan) stat to air handler green black. Y (cooling) stat to condenser white or O&B terminal white black w 1 on air handler and blue (L Honeywell stat) to brown (c) condenser and to (C) brown on transformer. blew a 20 amp fuse & had no power to stat. replaced fuse didn't check transformer to see if blown a inline fuse with spade connectors was also installed .I figured transformer was burnt any suggestions??????

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tw6473975

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  • Posted on Jul 19, 2014
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rheem wiring diagrams - 9977780b-7312-4ced-a37a-49f59425d510.jpg
This should cover it.

3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2012

SOURCE: wire size for a 2 ton gas pack

In door shod be #12 and out door shod be #10 if it is not that far from the box

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Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2012

SOURCE: Rheem furnace has 2 green lights 1 is slowly blinking

you can check the inside door chart, and it will map out the led light readout for you. just follow the instructions on the panel and it will tell you possible problems and what you may need to fix to make your unit run correctly.

jeff5may32

  • 1258 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2014

SOURCE: My air handler fan does not come on, the outside unit turns on fine. Is their a way to reset the fan?

Check for fan operation by turning the fan control at the thermostat to "on". If the fan blows, it works. If not, check a circuit breaker or fuse.

If the fan blows when forcing it on with the thermostat but not in automatic, check the fan control circuit in the air handler. Danger: high voltage, beware! There should be a system wiring diagram inside the air handler somewhere.

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Related Questions:

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Where is the low voltage 24 vac transformer located?

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I have a heating unit and trying to wire thermostat got 2 white wires, a red and a clear. where do they go

Hi, with just a heater and no air, the red would be the hot wire which goes to the R terminal on thermostat and clear which are normally white will go to W on the stat. If you have a heat only stat, it should have only the R and W connections. If a central heat and air stat, wire it the same, but you may need a third wire for the fan if it is forced air. You would be better off running down to the hardware store and getting a 24 volt heat only stat. I don't know what kind of heater you have, but make sure of the control voltage of the unit. Most gas, heat-pumps, gas & electric are 24 volts ac. Some heat only units are milivolts. Anyway, connect the 2 as I have said. Before you wire the 2 wires to the stat, touch the 2 together and watch to see if it fires up. It may have a delay, but should fire right up if the heater is working right. No danger of shock as this is very low voltage, nothing to worry about when testing. If it is a central type gas furnace, the voltage will be 24 volts. Please rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I chose not to charge you for my time on this thread. Keep me posted.
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I have a Rheem System Model number rcba-3765GG17 Serial number M1201. How would you turn the heat on?

At the low voltage terminal where thermostat wires atttach, and go to stat and ac unit,

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My carrier air con unit is a problem

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Ruud achiever heat pump

If back-up heat comes on when a/c is turned on and then the back up heat turns off shortly after the a/c turns off, then the low voltage wiring is NOT correct. Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. this could also be your problem if the t-stat thinks it is telling the H/P to cool but the H/P is actuall interpreting the signal to heat. Check your amp draw on the furnace, if you have anything drawing 15 amps+ then it is most likely the actual elect heat running, if not then check the "B" terminal. Most universal t-stats come set from the factory to use the "O" terminal which is more common. Usually this can be changed in the installer setup menu on the stat or sometimes the stat will have separate "O" and "B" terminals
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