Question about Philips HTS3450 System

11 Answers

Speakers buzz for about 1 minute when powering on or switching

Our HT began buzzing for about 1 minute after powering on. The buzz begins high then slows down to a crawl and then stops; audio works fine after that. We started switching it to an unused audio source instead of powering it off, which worked for a while. Now it does the buzzing whenever we switch between sources, too. Help!

Posted by JFStan on

  • 18 more comments 
  • bpip Nov 07, 2007

    Unfortunately I have the same problem as well with the HTS3450 and have no idea what it is. I'll turn it off and then on and there is a slow buzzing and then it progressively gets louder and after 10 or 15 min the buzzing stops and I can hear sound. Any ideas?

  • Glitch9 Nov 20, 2007

    I've been searching for a while to find someone who has this same problem. I decided to just live with the problem until the buzzing sound never stopped. I turned the system off and back on again and the subwoofer's power light would not turn green and no sound would come out of the speakers. I still haven't been able to get any sound out of the speakers since.

  • mongolchuck Nov 23, 2007

    Same thing happened to mine. It started about a year after I got it, Aug 06. Now it doesn't work at all. I turn the power on and the red light on the sub goes out but the green one never comes on.

  • Anonymous Nov 25, 2007

    Ditto on the last person whose sub now does not work (red light, never green), no power to speakers. Only 10 months old... Grrr!

    The day it stopped I heard a lot of static then flat line.


  • doctor6397 Nov 30, 2007

    Let me add my frustrated voice to the chorus...about 3 weeks ago my system started buzzing when I turned it on - the noise would go away after about :30 seconds and everything seemed fine. A few days ago it just died. No sound whatsoever. Like the others my subwoofer light no longer turns green - and oddly, one night the system just turned on by itself - really weird, but that may be some kind of clue to someone. I've tried unplugging it and plugging it back in - nothing. I'm interested that all these posts are from this month - is that because we'll all responding the JFStan or are all our systems just suddenly dying at the same time?

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2007

    yeah what the hell, mine just stopped working tonight! could it be that a certain batch went bad and this is the time period this batch is frying? Has anyone contacted Philips about it?

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2007

    yeah what the hell, mine just stopped working tonight! could it be that
    a certain batch went bad and this is the time period this batch is
    frying? Has anyone contacted Philips about it?

  • Anonymous Dec 16, 2007

    I have the same issue.. seems to get progressive worse with time.

  • joserico Dec 23, 2007

    Lived with the buzz.  Tried not turning off to eliminate the warm up buzz.  Finally fried.  Doesn't sound like there is a fix beyond complete and total destruction, bwah, haha, ha.



  • Anonymous Dec 30, 2007

    I have the same problem and the system is now dead less than a year old. I contacted Philips and the requested I send the whole system back to them for replacement. This is the second syetem I've purchased under the Philips brand that failed in less than a year. They won't be getting anymore of my money!!!

  • Anonymous Jan 20, 2008

    I too have same problem,however still have green light.now it won,t even send sound to tv speakers,it used to do this.I think problem lies in dvd unit,because sound isn't sent anywhere it used to come through the tv speakers.I'm in canada so I have to spend 200+ to send to the factory, they have no service centers in canada, they should not be allowed north of the border,so now I have 60lb paper weight.The buzz lasted about 4 months for me and then died, it's no wonder everyone buys japanese electronics they are better products and they pay the shipping and have warranty service depots everywhere.
























































































































































































  • cannon79 Jan 22, 2008

    I have the same problem on mine. It's been going on for 3-4 months now, and is consistently 40 seconds or so in length. After it's made the noise, I've found that I either need to mute/un-mute in order to hear anything out of the speakers, or I need to hit the "-" button to bring it to volume=0 and then back (essentially muting it).

    The other thing that I've noticed is that it doesn't seem to happen when turning it off/on randomly, in the middle of a movie, for instance.

    I've noticed that the sound corresponds 100% with the cooling fan turning on the back of the subwoofer assembly. I opened up the unit (because it's out of warranty) and disconnected the fan, and it still made the same sounds at startup. I believe that the fan runs at full-blast while the unit is operating, so I'm suspicious that it has something to do with the startup sequence, when it senses the unit is not too hot and does not require full cooling with the fan. There might be a fan controller that is modulating (turning on and off very quickly) the fan voltage as it's warming up, which could be causing the problem. I want to look into it some more, but I don't have an absolute "smoking gun", at this point, but I'm suspicious of the fan controller!

    Just thought I would toss all of this out there, in case anyone can use this as a jumping-off point to fixing it.

  • DrBad Feb 02, 2008

    I also have the same problem and now all I get is the buzz. It follows the subwoofer cooling fan. Does anybody know how to fix it permanently? It's peculiar that the problem started a couple months after the 1 year warrenty expired.

  • DrBad Apr 08, 2008

    What I did was called Phillips to getm help with issue. They didn't provide me any troubleshooting assistance, but instesad offered me a replacement unit for $125. As I was out of warrenty, I went for it. The new unit is different than the old unit in that all the speaker drivers come from the central DVD player instead of the subwoofer, which makes more sense, design wise. My advice is go for the better design.

  • marcos11 Apr 22, 2008

    The same as other, began buzzing after powering on. The buzz begins high then slows down to a crawl and then stops; audio works fine after that. We started switching it to an unused audio source instead of powering it off, which worked for a while. Now it does the buzzing whenever we switch between sources, too.

  • Anonymous Apr 28, 2008

    This is my second HTS 3450 with the same problem. Buzzing then finally no sound at all. Returned the first system which was still under warranty to Philips and they replaced it with a "re-conditioned" unit, but it only had a 90-day warranty. Now the replacement system is buzzing and I'm in the stage of switching to mute or another source to get the sound back. Very fustrating.

  • moorehealing Jul 19, 2008

    same problem sub takes forever to power up and than a loud buzzing noise

  • Anonymous Jul 21, 2008

    I've had mine for about 1 1/5 year and it finally died out just the other day after the same promblem of buzzing and high pitch noise. I'm gonna try dusting out my old soldering iron and try replacing this capacitor since it is so conveniently out of warrenty. Hopefully my time, anguish and labor will pay off. What a piece of ****!!!

  • w_vader Jul 22, 2008

    Ok, so I dismounted the power supply board in the back of the subwoofer and I only see two 470uF/200V capacitors near the long flat aluminum heat sink instead of 470uF/25V... Am I looking at the wrong capacitors or does mine come with a different setup? Should I still replace it with 470uF/35V capacitors or stick with the 200V?

    please help.

    Thanks.

  • Anonymous Apr 28, 2009

    Same problem, the capacitor trick worked like a charm for under $10 and an hours worth of time.

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11 Answers

Anonymous

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Building on what WheatService said for any other newbs (like me) who may run across this...
1) Go to Radio Shack, get yourself two of the 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors mentioned ($1.29/each) and a cheap soldering kit (mine came with solder and extras for $8). just take those numbers to the clerk, once he or she tries to sell you a couple cell phones, they should help you find the parts.
2) go home. disconnect the subwoofer from the wall, speakers, and dvd player
3) remove the 8 screws around the edge of the metal plate on back of subwoofer and carefully remove the metal plate and all the goodies attached to it. make sure to disconnect the two wires leading from the rest of the subwoofer to the circuit boards.
4) what you are looking at is two parallel circuit boards with a bunch of stuff in between them. to tell them apart, notice that one of the boards is home to a fan (amongst other things), and the other has the power cord running into it.
5) we want to remove the board that the power cord runs into, so make sure you've got the right one, and remove all of the screws which are holding it in place. again, be sure to unhook any cords before you yank off the circuit board.
6) once the board is removed, you should see two large heatsinks (pieces of metal). one is just a big rectangle that sticks straight up towards one end of the board and the other is kind of t-shaped (from the end) and a monstrosity. you'll want to look in the area between the two heat sinks but towards the smaller, rectangular one.
7) in that area, there may be some white foamy stuff sprayed around. take a look at the capacitors from radio shack and note their size. you are looking for two identical black, cylindrical capacitors roughly the same size as the ones you purchased (but a bit smaller). if you think you have the right ones, take a look at the side of them. you may have to scrape off some foamy stuff, but they should say 470uF/25V.
8) the basic idea here is that those 25V guys need to be replaced with 35V ones (the ones you bought). i'm no expert, but what worked for me is pulling lightly on the existing capacitors while melting the contact points from the bottom with the soldering tool. once those are removed, put the new ones in (push them almost all the way down so most of the wire is coming out the bottom). now turn the board back over and apply a generous bead of solder to each of the four wire points.
9) clip off the excess wire from the bottom, and marvel at your newfound expertise.
10) put the whole thing back together (steps 2-5 in reverse), remembering to connect the wires as you go.
11) turn it on and enjoy!

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

  • gokullmthvn Jun 23, 2011

    i want to say thank you. my friend gave me one of these for free but had the issue you described and i went to Radioshack and got the capacitors fot $3.20 and changed them without a hitch. the system works perfectly. great instructions

  • Cobra90 Jul 08, 2011

    Wow! I also had this problem and was looking at getting a new system when I ran across this fix, I figured i would give it a try for fun. Well,a quick trip to Radio Shack for a couple of capacitors,$3.20, and 10 minutes to pull out and soldier in the new caps. I reconnected the speakers and powered up the system and I had Immediate sound!! Thanks for the detailed instructions.

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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My suggestive solution for this page is to follow the guidelines to solution #5. My home theater had all of the problems mentioned on this page, from the high pitch buzzing, which eventually drones into a low synthesizer sounds, to inevitably not working at all. I was aware that the problem existed within the subwoofer only because the light on the front of the sub would go red when plugged up for the standby, but would not turn green when the receiver was turned on. After trying to get help from the Philips hotline, which was similar to talking to my grandmother about technology, I found this solution page and built the confidence to try solution 5. The fellow is a genius. I bought the things listed in his paragraph and followed his instructions with hardly any experience. The procedure took 15 minutes and the results are exceptional. I appreciate having solid guidelines to work with. Thank you

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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"two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now."

I did this and it worked perfect! The capacitors were $1.29 each and I had to get a sottering kit that was about $8 but it works and completely fixes it.

Posted on Jul 20, 2008

Anonymous

You can still use the speakers (not the sub) from this system by un clipping the little plastic harness on the end of the wire.

Posted on Apr 23, 2008

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I have the Philips HTS3450 DVD home theater system. I have had it for over a year now, and love it, except.... In the past couple of moths we recently moved. After hooking up the system exactly like it was premove, I get a clicking sound that starts out spaced apart, and progressivly gets closer, and closer, until it becomes one high pitched sound from all my speakers. It reminds me of some kinda of warming up sequance. It started out rather quickly, and over the past few months has gotten longer and slower. There is no sound until it goes through this routine. once its done, all is well, until.... Today, no clicking, no progression to a high pitch union. Nothing. So now I have no sound what so ever. I have double, and tripled checked all connections. Recycled the power several times. Double and tripled checked all settings too. I do not know what could be wrong....

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

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Mine died after 14 months. Out of warranty. It's junk. Bought a RCA system. I will NEVER buy Philips again. Period!

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

Anonymous

Hum, crackle, crackle, silence... and on the 14 month. Hmmmm. Sad that the propriatary design means throw the whole thing in the trash. Lesson learned...Phillips = designed obsoleteness.

Posted on Jan 14, 2008

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Buzzing is the beginning of death for this system

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

Anonymous

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Awesome! I love the "HIT IT HARDER" approach....
Nothing to lose at this point...
Phillips - NEVER AGAIN!

Posted on Dec 04, 2007

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2007

    I bit the bullet, went and bought a Sony, and will NEVER buy Phillips again. You get what you pay for, and HTS is no different. Should have bought a 24$ Circuit city plan... ..alas the Sony is far better.
    If you get a class action BATCH replacement deal (and the chinese will turn from red to blue....) let me know...

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Anonymous

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Try to call Philips and check your warranty date. It is good for one year so hopefully call the tech support and return the units like I did for exchange.

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: The equipment began buzzing after powering on

i had same thing happening until it finally died all together. no sound at all.....everything else works.....and sub lights up in standby. i took sub apart today....and found that 2 capacitors had swelled. you can see where i guess they got hot...because of the glue type stuff surrounding them went from yellow to browish -burnt color. so i'm looking for 2 capacitors before i can tell you if its the problem.

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

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