SOURCE: Replaced lamp and now can't get a picture
Hi Sally Jo, Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010 2. Lamp enable line at J14 pin 6 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010 4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010 5. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 934C148001. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: mitsubishi wd-62825 dlp
The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.
Bill
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WD-52631 HD TV lamp problems
So far I have had no good luck with Mitsubishi. I have had them send me two bulbs and had the tv repaired in the two years I have owned it. My last tv lasted 14 years with NO issue and didn't cost me $1400!! I have been told there is an air flow problem and power supply problems which both lead to low lamp life. I think that if Mitsubishi wants to avoid a class action lawsuit they need to start giving away free lamps for this model. Also, this is not localized to just the 52" tvs. My wifes ex has the 62" and it has the same issues.
SOURCE: WD-62327 Lamp
OSRAM VS. PHILLIPS
This is about buying replacement bulbs for the WD62327 TVs.I dont know about the other models but I purchased a PHILLIPS replacement bulb and it worked for about a week and then those dumb flashing lights and no TV. I did some research and others were saying that you had to replace some condensers. Shop would do it for 600 dollars..Well i sent the bulb back and bought an OSRAM replaement bulb. The TV is now working perfect.
SOURCE: wd-60737 mitsubishi blinking yellow status light ?
Mitsubishi TV troubleshooting
Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
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