Can my shaft spin and not my impellor. how can i check

there are no gears just a direct drive from the crank to a jet pump ! if theres no propultion of water it could be several things !
1. plastic bag etc in the intake to impellor pump assy !
2. impellor gap to housing too much ie worn impellor !
3. impellor not turning because splines on either the shaft or impellor worn !
4. drive coupler damaged and spinning on shaft !
Try running on a hose pipe and look at rear of engine ( remove plastic cover so you can see the 2part coupler and drive shaft ) .
Check the impellor assy !

There are a number of screws on the pump housing opposite the motor that can be removed to open the pump and expose the impeller. Some pumps have a screw into the center of the shaft that helps keep the impeller from spinning off the shaft. It often is a left handed screw. Once any center screw is removed the cover on the other end of the pump should be removed to expose the end of the motor shaft. This end of the shaft should be held solid with a wrench while the impellor is unscrewed. These threads are usually right handed. The process can be reversed with a new impeller. I hope this helps.

If it hums and the impellor shaft is not turning, it's jammed and will trip the breaker after it over heats.
If the impellor shaft is turning, may have a broken impellor. After closing the inlet and oulet valves, I would take the pump cover off and check... Good luck...

remove clutch cover,hold water pump shaft on flats on shaft and undo impellor by nut cast on impellor. remove old bearings and seals.check shaft for grooving where seal runs and replace if any.assemble in reverse order with new seals and bearings etc

Separate pump and motor. Remove diffuser. Remove back cover from motor. Motor shaft has either a slot for a screwdriver or a flat area for a wrench. Hold shaft and unscrew impeller.

No test available other than:
Remove pump - check motor will turn by rotating impellor. There is a slight resistance then moves freely, then slight resistance and freely again. This is correct for this machine. worth checking there is no hair, elastic band or other obstruction around the impellor fins and shaft whilst the pump is out.
There is no spin cycle so you have to use rinse & spin, which means if the pump is shot you need to empty the machine each time :(
Worth checking lower filter as stated and blowing down the drain hose whilst the pump is off to check for obstructions.
The resolution to my problem was a new pump - £20.
All working fine again now !

sounds like you have a bad start capacitor, check that first and make sure the motor spins freely. You may be able to check to see if the motor is seized by removing the end cap and spinning the shaft. If it spins freely, it's a bad start/run capacitor.

Iv'e changed heaps of these.Follow these steps taking carefull note of where & how everything goes to make it easy to put back together. make sketches if necessary.

• Drain the coolant & engine oil
• Remove the hoses that go to the water pump
• remove the waterpump cover
• remove the impellor
• remove the kickstarter
• remove the clutch cover & locating dowel pins if they are still in the clutch cover(if they didn't stay in the crank case)
• the water pump seal is a (ceramic) two piece unit
• remove the ceramic disc & rubber holder from the back of the impellor
• remove the impellor drive shaft from the clutch cover
• behind the impellor drive shaft there is a small bearing. To remove this I heat around the alloy of the bearing with a heat gun (or butaine gas torch,if using an oxy torch use a small tip & take care to heat evenly & not melt anything/or heat in an oven to 80 to 100 degrees max)Use welding gloves to handle the hot clutch cover)
• turn the cover over & whack it down on a flat piece of wood(9 times out of 10 this is enough to shock out the bearing
• remove the back-up seal from behind the bearing you just removed noteing the direction it was facing(for reassembly)
• now using a suitable drift,knock out the other half of the mechanical seal
• scrape all the gaskets & clean the parts
• check the impellor drive shaft to make sure the shaft is smooth & dosn't have any groves worn in it.If it does you'll have to replace it
• I always fit a new impellor bearing & back-up seal & new gaskets when doing this job
• reassembly is reverse of removal noting the following
• to install the bearing & seals use a socket that matches the OUTSIDE diamiter of them so you don't damage them.To install the rubber cup & ceramic washer into the impellor DON'T use a drift just push them in by hand
• apply some grease to the impellor shaft before installing it
• Apply some soap to the ceramic disc before re-fitting it
• to install the clutch cover, if it won't go on at the front near the impellor, turn the impellor shaft to engage the gear
• refit kickstarter,waterpump cover,hoses
• re-fill radiator with fresh coolant
• re-fill gearbox with fresh gearbox oil

That just about covers it all
Hope this helps you
Regards Andrew Porrelli

If this a new installation - check the knockout plug is removed from the garbage disposal.

If it has worked in the past - check the pump inlet screen at the bottom of the unit for clogging.

And if the screen is clear - and the motor is spinning - the pump may be damaged.(impellor separated from shaft or broken vanes etc)

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

instead of motor check out the motor impeller that can make the high pitched noise if rusted or cracked. ------------- Motor and pump assembly screw and impellor help....
 
One of the most common question that I get on a dishwasher repair is "how does that motor and pump impellor screw come out?"
Inside many dishwasher pump assemblies is a screw that goes through the upper impellor and screws directly into the motor shaft. Since the motor shaft and screw are made of metal...you guessed it...they can / will rust. The screw can rust and become very tight and difficult to remove!! These screws are normally a right ( regular ) hand thread, socket or nut driver can be used to remove the screw. One hard thing to do is to hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, they often just turn together. The impellor may be jammed with a screwdriver to hold it still so the screw can be removed...sometimes the impellor can be help still by placing a rag on it and hold tight with your hand, the rag will help prevent a sharp edge on the impellor from cutting your fingers. The odd time that screw is too rusted into place, soaking a little rust buster or 3in1 oil on it over night may help loosen it. Sometimes trying to tighten the screw a little at first will help break it free. There are some tool ( see below ) that can be purchased to help hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, these are only for a few models and pump assembly styles.
WLP seal tool helps center and install the pump seal
Frigidaire seal - impellor remover and install tool
Once the screw is removed, the next obstacle is the impellor can also get stuck onto the motor shaft. Many times I have to break off the old impellor. A sharp blow straight down with a hammer and flat screwdriver will often crack the plastic impellor...careful not to damage the pump body! If the motor shaft has indeed rusted, clean it up really good with sand cloth.